The FujiFilm Finepix XP130 and its predecessor the XP120 both have a bunch of options for shooting photos. I’m dealing with them together here because there is so much in common between these models, and they share the same photo options, settings, and even use the same sensor.
With these cameras, you can choose things like size and quality, and there are some special modes such as panorama, burst mode, time-lapse, and panoramas. So here’s an overview of what the various settings and modes do on these cameras.
- 16.4 MP BSI CMOS Sensor
- Waterproof to 65ft/20M, freeze proof to 14 Degree/-10 Degree, Shockproof to 5.8ft/1.75M, and dustproof
Image Sizes, Resolutions, and Aspect Ratios on the Finepix XP130 / XP120
The XP120 and XP130 use the same sensor, a 16.4MP BSI-CMOS sensor. It creates images with a maximum size of 4608 by 3456 pixels in a 4:3 aspect ratio. You can also choose smaller sizes and different aspect ratios. The choices are:
Image sizes: L, M, S
Aspect Ratios: 4:3, 3:2, 16:9, 1:1
You set the image sizes and aspect ratios separately, which means you can mix and match them. These are the pixel dimensions of the various combinations.
Image Size | 4:3 | 3:2 | 16:9 | 1:1 |
---|---|---|---|---|
L | 4608×3456 | 4608×3072 | 4608×2592 | 3456×3456 |
M | 3264×2448 | 3264×2176 | 3264×1840 | 2432×2432 |
S | 2048×1536 | 2304×1536 | 1920×1080 | 1728×1728 |
If you want to create the maximum size images that the camera is capable of, use the L setting combined with the 4:3 aspect ratio.
Image Quality Settings on the FujiFilm Finepix XP120 / XP130
There are two image quality settings available: Fine and Normal.
The Fine option provides the highest quality. It applies a lighter touch of compression, which means that the file sizes are larger.
The Normal option has slightly reduced image quality but smaller files that are better for sharing online (if you’re sharing directly) or when using the camera’s wifi features.
If you want to ensure the best possible image quality, set the Image Quality Setting to F (for fine). The filesizes of the resulting images will be larger, but they’ll have less compression (and therefore retain better quality) than using the Normal setting.
Image Format
Both cameras save their images as JPGs. They don’t have a RAW image format available. If you want to get technical, they use what’s known as EXIF 2.3 JPEG format.
ISO Range
In addition to the usual Auto ISO option, you can set ISOs from 100 up to 6400.
Finepix Color
FujiFilm is obviously well-known as a film company, and they’ve long incorporated the distinctive looks of some of their films into their digital cameras. They’re basically filters, but they’re more specifically aiming at the look of film.
The options in this camera are very much trimmed down from something like the FujiFilm X-T2, but it still gives some basic options:
- Standard. This is the one that’s the most versatile, the most “normal looking,” and the least distinctive. In FujiFilm terms, it’s closer to something like Provia film.
- Chrome. This has the higher contrast and punchier look of vibrant slide films like Velvia.
- B&W. Pretty self-explanatory: it’s black and white.
- Sepia. It’s monochrome, but instead of true black and white, it has that brownish tint of antique photographs.
It’s worth noting that because the files are saved as JPGs, these color settings are hard-coded into the image file, so they’re not reversible. If you think you might want to change it later, your best bet is to shoot using the Standard mode and then apply filters later.
White Balance
By default, the XP120 uses auto white balance, so it’s calculating what it thinks is the best setting for the lighting conditions to minimize any overall color cast and present more naturally balanced colors.
But there might be situations that you want to override it for creative reasons or the auto setting isn’t giving you the results you want. Another typical case where you might want to set specific white balance is if you’re trying to match a sequence of photos, perhaps when shooting a time-lapse or when shooting comparison photos.
You can’t set the white balance with a numerical value, but there are several presets you can choose from:
- Auto. The default. Best for everyday use.
- Sun icon. Best for shots in the warm light of direct sunlight.
- Partly cloudy icon. Best for the slightly cooler light of shadows in daylight.
- Fluorescent light icons. There are three options for fluorescent lights that correspond to the warmth of the light: 1 is for daylight balanced lights; 2 is for warm white lights; and 3 is for cool white lights.
- Lightbulb icon. This is for the warm light emitted by incandescent bulbs.
- Fish icon. This is outside the white balance options you usually find in cameras, and it’s not just a warm-vs-cool light option. Long wavelength light doesn’t penetrate water well, so the deeper you go underwater the less red and orange you get. This setting tries to correct for that so that you don’t end up with photos that are blue on blue. Because a defining feature of this camera is that it’s waterproof, there are other settings that are useful when shooting underwater; this isn’t the only way to tackle the problem.
Again, these settings are hard-coded into the JPG file, and unlike shooting in RAW, you can’t adjust them directly later.1
Burst Mode
By the default, the Finepix XP130 and XP120 shoot a single photo each time you press the shutter. But there’s also an option to use a burst mode or continuous mode that shoots a rapid sequence of pictures. It’s an especially good option for fast-moving action shots.
In general, you can choose to shoot 3 photos per second, 5 photos per second, or 10 photos per second. There also a special mode that can take up to 60 frames per second, but that is limited to the small image size.
I have a post going into more detail on how to use the burst modes on these cameras.
Other Photo Modes of the FujiFilm Finepix XP120 and XP130
There are also some other photo modes worth mentioning. I’ll go into more detail in separate posts on them, but here’s a quick overview.
The first is the panorama mode. This stitches multiple images together in a row to make a very wide or tall photo.
The second is the time-lapse mode. It’s also sometimes referred to in the menu system as interval shooting. This is used to create those ultra-fast time-lapse videos that speed up real life. You can set the interval between each shot and how long you want it to keep capturing. You can then have it save just the still images that you can then compile into a video using an app on your computer or save it as both the still images and a video that’s compiled in the camera (up to 1080p60 resolution). This Still+Time-Lapse Movie setting is the most convenient and gives you the best of both worlds, but it also takes up much more space on your memory card.
For close-ups, there’s a macro mode that lets you focus as close as 3.5 inches (6 cm) from the front of the lens.
If you’re shooting in contrasty situations that have a combination of dark shadows and bright highlights, you can turn on the HDR, or high-dynamic range, mode. This captures a quick series of photos at different exposures and then combines them into the camera to generate a single image that uses the best detail from each. To avoid blurring, you’ll want to take extra care that both the camera and, ideally, the scene are still.
The Pro Low-Light mode is similar to HDR in that it takes a series of photos and then combines them, but the way it combines them is a bit different, emphasizing reducing image noise and reducing blurring.
The Cinemagraph is an interesting option that falls somewhere between a still image and a video. It’ not a short clip like a gif–it’s a still image that has a small part of the image moving in a constant loop. It’s a bit hard to explain how they look, so the easiest is to see some in action. These involve a little more user input to create, so I’ll go into more detail on these separately.
How Many Photos from the XP120 and XP130 Can You Fit on a Memory Card?
These are calculated from the figures FujiFilm provides in the manual. It’s important to note, though, that they’re approximations. Because of the way JPG image compression works, the final filesizes will vary image to image, depending on things like the detail and tonal complexity of the image. So if you anticipate filling cards up, it’s worth leaving yourself some wiggle room because it’s possible to end up with fewer images fitting on the card than this table suggests.
Image Size | Quality Setting | Aspect Ratio | 4GB | 8GB | 16GB | 32GB | 64GB | 128GB |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Large | Fine | 4:3 | 460 | 940 | 1,880 | 3,760 | 7,520 | 15,040 |
3:2 | 520 | 1,050 | 2,100 | 4,200 | 8,400 | 16,800 | ||
16:9 | 620 | 1,250 | 2,500 | 5,000 | 10,000 | 20,000 | ||
1:1 | 620 | 1,250 | 2,500 | 5,000 | 10,000 | 20,000 | ||
Normal | 4:3 | 930 | 1,860 | 3,720 | 7,440 | 14,880 | 29,760 | |
3:2 | 1,040 | 2,090 | 4,180 | 8,360 | 16,720 | 33,440 | ||
16:9 | 1,230 | 2,470 | 4,940 | 9,880 | 19,760 | 39,520 | ||
1:1 | 1,230 | 2,470 | 4,940 | 9,880 | 19,760 | 39,520 | ||
Medium | Fine | 4:3 | 920 | 2,860 | 5,720 | 11,440 | 22,880 | 45,760 |
3:2 | 1,040 | 2,090 | 4,180 | 8,360 | 16,720 | 33,440 | ||
16:9 | 1,220 | 2,460 | 4,920 | 9,840 | 19,680 | 39,360 | ||
1:1 | 1,240 | 2,500 | 5,000 | 10,000 | 20,000 | 40,000 | ||
Normal | 4:3 | 1,820 | 3,660 | 7,320 | 14,640 | 29,280 | 58,560 | |
3:2 | 2,040 | 4,110 | 8,220 | 16,440 | 32,880 | 65,760 | ||
16:9 | 2,400 | 4,830 | 9,660 | 19,320 | 38,640 | 77,280 | ||
1:1 | 2,400 | 4,900 | 9,800 | 19,600 | 39,200 | 78,400 | ||
Small | Fine | 4:3 | 2,300 | 4,620 | 9,240 | 18,480 | 36,960 | 73,920 |
3:2 | 2,050 | 4,120 | 8,240 | 16,480 | 32,960 | 65,920 | ||
16:9 | 3,420 | 6,870 | 13,740 | 27,480 | 54,960 | 109,920 | ||
1:1 | 2,420 | 4,850 | 9,700 | 19,400 | 38,800 | 77,600 | ||
Normal | 4:3 | 3,380 | 6,800 | 13,600 | 27,200 | 54,400 | 108,800 | |
3:2 | 3,030 | 6,080 | 12,160 | 24,320 | 48,640 | 97,280 | ||
16:9 | 4,990 | 1,020 | 2,040 | 4,080 | 8,160 | 16,320 | ||
1:1 | 3,550 | 7,140 | 14,280 | 28,560 | 57,120 | 114,240 |
Where to Find Them
The FujiFilm Finepix XP130 is available in blue, green, yellow, silver/black, and white. You can find them at Amazon and B&H Photo.
The XP120 is now discontinued, but at the time of writing you can still find them at B&H.
Kitting Out the XP130 and XP120
Here are some of the most popular accessories for the XP130 and XP120.
- Includes 2 replacement batteries, 1 Dual USB charger and 1 micro USB cable for Fujifilm NP-45
- Exact Capacity: Each battery features 3.7V, 900mAh, Triple your camera runtime with a complete backup...
- ✮Fully compatible with Fujifilm INSTAX Mini 90 FinePix XP20 XP30 XP60 XP70 XP80 XP90 XP120 XP130 XP140...
- ✮Battery Type:Li-ion, Voltage: 3.7V Capacity: 1200mAh. LCD display, can clearly display the charge...
- waiyu Hard EVA Carrying Case for Fujifilm FinePix XP140/XP130/XP120 Waterproof Digital Camera Case
- Material: Durable high-grade hard EVA material, excellent touch,With Internal mesh pocket 。
- Advanced Design, High Portability Brand New! Excellent customer service!
- Tested Units. In Great Working Condition.
- Fashionable appearance design,The case specially designed Replacement for Fujifilm FinePix...
- Replacement for Fujifilm FinePix XP140/XP130/XP120/XP90 Digital Camera can be loaded into the hard...
- Some image editing apps will let you use white balance editing tools on JPGs, but the way it’s applied to JPGs is different to the lossless way it’s handled with RAW image files. When you use the tools with JPGs you run the risk of quality degradation. ↩
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Images and product information from Amazon PA-API were last updated on 2023-06-02 at 10:38. Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon Site at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.
We are planning to travel to South Africa in July 2021. We both own the Fugifilm Finepix XP120 Series waterproof camera? Wondering if this camera can be charged with an international converter?
You can continue to charge it the same way as usual–the charging system is built to be flexible. If you use the AC adapter that’s included with the camera, use the same USB cable and an international adapter. Not a converter, which is a little different, and you don’t need that–just a simple travel adapter for the different types of plugs. Plug the AC adapter into the travel adapter and continue as normal. You can also use a USB power source like a powerbrick or external battery, in which case it completely bypasses the AC system and you can use it on the go.
I have only had my camera for about 2 months it worked fine the first few times inside and out. However now my camera will take picture inside but when outside they just come our as a very bright blur. Any advise on why this would be happening?
It sounds like it’s stuck in one of the low-light shooting modes like night or fireworks mode. That’s the first thing I’d check: making sure it’s in P mode or similar (instructions here).
Is there a setting I can change so I can take good picture of the moon?
The zoom really isn’t long enough to fill the frame with the zoom. Aside from that, you’ll get better results from using a tripod, using the L image size, and the Auto shooting mode. But you’ll have to be realistic about the results–the camera just isn’t designed for that kind of shooting.
I own this wonderful camera and im curious to how hot of water it can withstand? do you happen to have an awnser?
No, that’s something I haven’t tested or really know how to test reliably. The manual specifies an operating temperature range of -10°C to +40°C (ie. 14°F to 104°F).
What are the best settiings for underwater. Mine are coming out too dark
If you’re finding that it’s consistently too dark, the first thing I’d try is using the exposure compensation, perhaps bumping it up to around +1 and testing that. You can find a guide to how to enable it on p.45 of the manual, but the short version is use P shooting mode, press the +/- button (next to delete trash card on back of camera), and then hit Menu/OK to set it.