If you shoot enough photos, it’s going to be more a question of when, not if, you find that your photos are missing from your memory card. Maybe it’s from faulty hardware, perhaps the camera or the memory card. Or perhaps it’s from user error of accidentally formatting the card before you’ve fully downloaded all the photos to your computer. For whatever reason it happens, there are ways you can try to recover your photos and videos from your memory card, whether it’s an SD card, microSD card, CompactFlash, CFexpress, XQD, CFast, or another kind of memory card.
I’ve covered several options for how to recover deleted photos before. Here I’m focusing on another: Disk Drill. It’s an app for Windows and Mac. I’m using the Mac version here. The folks at CleverFiles sent me a Pro license to try out, and that’s what I’m using here for this demo and the screenshots below. There’s also a version for Windows. And if you’re using an older version of Mac, you’ll probably need to use an older version of Disk Drill that’s compatible with that version. You can find the older versions here.
I’m focusing on recovering deleted photos from a memory card, like an SD card or microSD card. It’s basically the same process if you need to recover them from your hard drive, whether that’s an internal hard drive or external hard drive, but it will often take longer there simply because they tend to have more storage space and have far more files on them.
For this demo, I’m starting with a 256GB SD card that I’ve formatted in the camera (in this case, a Nikon D850). So it’s the process you’re likely to do if you’ve accidentally deleted the photos using the camera’s formatting option, something I’ve done prematurely by accident more than once before. When trying to view the card in the camera, it shows that the card is completely empty. Ditto if I insert it into a card reader connected to my computer. So that’s our starting point. But as you’ll see, that’s not the last word and what’s recoverable, and it’s not yet time to give up hope of recovering your photos. And I’m just covering the basics here–there are a bunch more ways you can tweak the scan and recovery operation to your specific situation and needs.
Disk Drill Setup
Disk Drill is set to work as is right out of the box, but there are a number of preferences you can apply. These are some suggestions, and they’re entirely options—they’re not required to run the scanning process. These include S.M.A.R.T. Monitoring, which watches your drives for potential hardware failures.
But the most directly relevant to what we’re trying to do here are the preferences related to file types.
Disk Drill can find most types of files on a hard drive, not just photos and videos. But if you’re trying to recover photos and videos, it can be useful to reduce the clutter in the scan results by specifying the categories of files you’re looking for.
You can do this in the Settings/Preferences under the File Types tab. There you have sections for Pictures, Videos, Audio, Documents, and Archives. Each of those is a category, and if you click in the small arrows next to each, you can find specific file extensions.
If you want to drill down further and be more specific about file extensions and types, you can.
Scanning to Find Recoverable Files
The next step is to move onto the actual scanning and recovery. First, though, you need to identify the disk you want to scan. You’ll see two sections in the main window. At the top is a list of hardware disks that the app can see (you will probably also have some hidden; you can reveal them with a link at the bottom left of the window).
But a simpler option is often to scroll down to the section under “Logical volumes.” These usually have more user-friendly names and factor in any partitions on the drives (there’s another RAIDs section below that as well).
Find the drive you want to scan, and then click on the Recover button on the right.
In the main scanning window, you have another opportunity to narrow down the types of files you’re looking for. You can select the type (e.g., Pictures), by file size, files that have been deleted within a specific timeframe, or even running a search (not as useful as it sounds for searching by filenames because the filenames you’re expecting might not be retained).
You have a choice of a quick scan or a deep scan. In this example, I’m just going to cut to the chase with a more thorough deep scan.
You can find the progress indicator at the top of the window.
It will show up with the files it can find as it finds them.
They’re organized into folders by types, but you can dig down into each to find specific folders you want.
If you’re looking for JPGs, it’s straightforward. Just drill down into the JPG folder. But if you’re looking for RAW files or video files, it might not be so self-evident. That’s because the filetype identification might not match the file extension you’re expecting. Here, for example, I’m looking for Nikon .nef files. At first, it looks like it hasn’t found any, but has instead found a bunch of “mpo” and “nrw” files. But if you look closer, you’ll see that the “nrw” files are, in fact, the NEF files I’m after. In the “Kind” column, they’re described as “Nikon NRW raw image,” and the file size matches what I expect.
You can highlight each individual line and press the space bar to preview the image.
Recovery of Deleted Files
Once the scan is completed and you’re located the images you’re after, it’s time to move onto the recovery process. To perform the actual recovery, you’ll need a licensed version of the app. (See below for a 10% off coupon code.)
First, you’ll need to choose where you want the recovered files to be saved. Do that with the box in the middle at the top.
At the far left, you’ll notice some checkboxes. If you want to recover everything, click on the checkmark next to its parent folder. If you want to recovery just individual files, click on the checkbox next to the corresponding files.
Once you’ve selected the ones you want, hit the Recover button at top right.
You’ll then get a progress screen that will tell you whether the recovery of each individual file was a success or resulted in an error.
Once that’s done, the files are back on your hard drive (or wherever you chose to save them) and can be used as normal files. In some cases, you might need to rename the files.
Things Worth Knowing
While I’m focusing here on photo and video files on a memory card, Disk Drill will happily work with just about any filetype on just about any type of local storage device.
In this case, the NEF files were recovered as NRW files, but on my Mac, those are treated as if they were NEF and work normally.
In some cases, it might be possible to recover most of an image file, but it might have white bands (or multicolored bands) across it. This is usually the result of a partial corruption of the file and often results if you’ve been reusing the memory card so that data is getting written over it. For those cases, there’s not much you can do, unfortunately—the data is only partial and corrupted.
Where to Get It
You can download Disk Drill directly from the developer’s website.
There’s a free trial version that will run the scan and show you what it can find—i.e., a preview of what’s possible to recover. If you’d like to go ahead with the actual recovery, you can upgrade to the Pro version.
Ricoh GR III Accessories & Replacement Parts
Here are the model numbers of some of the core accessories and replacement parts for the Ricoh GR III.
- Ring Cap: GN-1
The ring cap is the small plastic ring that attaches around the lens. Chances are, it's fallen off. While you do have to remove it to attach the lens adapter, it's a poor design that tends to fall off and get lost far too often. I've lost a couple of them now.
The camera will work just fine without it. But that will leave some contacts exposed around the lens barrel, which isn't ideal.
The official replacement part is overpriced. But you can also pick up much less expensive aftermarket versions. They're also available in different colors, so you can bling up your camera with a personal touch--or make it look like the Street Edition.
- 【Compatibility】: Designed for Ricoh GRIII (only).This decoration ring is made of high quality...
- 【Easy to use & Protector】:Easy installation and removal and Protects lens barrel exterior.
The GR III has a USB Type-C connector port. When you get a cable, you can get them with another USB Type-C connector on the other end or a more traditional USB Type-A connector. Which you choose depends entirely on what you're plugging into. For example, some newer laptops only have USB-C, while most other computers have USB-A.
- The Anker Advantage: Join the 50 million+ powered by our leading technology.
- Enhanced Durability: Improved construction techniques and materials make a cable that lasts 12× longer.
Battery & Charger
- Battery: DB-110
It's a rechargeable lithium-ion battery rated at 3.6V 1350mAh 4.9Wh.
There are some other cameras that also use the same battery--notably, some Olympus cameras (the Olympus model number for the same battery is LI-90B). So they're quite widely available. You can get the official Ricoh version. There are also aftermarket versions that can be much better value but work just as well.
- This Wasabi Power kit includes 2 batteries and 1 charger for the Ricoh DB-110
- Each Wasabi Power battery features Premium Grade A cells, 3.7V, 1300mAh
- Charger: BJ-11
You can charge the battery in the camera (using a USB-C cable). There are also external battery chargers available. They're especially useful if you're using spare batteries, so you can charge and shoot simultaneously.
- AC Adapter: K-AC166
This is used to power the camera for longer shoots, such as time-lapse, or if you happen to be using the camera for live streaming as a webcam. It connects via the camera's USB-C port.
Wide-Angle Conversion Lens
- Wide-Angle Lens: GW-4
- Lens Adapter: GA-1
- Wired Shutter Release: CA-3
- Easy to operate, Half-press to focus, Full-press to shoot
- Fits macro photography well, eliminates camera shake
- Standard External Viewfinder: GV-1
- Mini External Viewfinder: GB-2
- ✪LCD Screen Protector perfectly fit for Ricoh GR 3 DSLR Camera . Not for other model. Easy to install...
- ✪9H Hardness - Longer tempering time, which made the screen protector has a higher hardness. Prevents...
- Soft Case: GC-9
- Neck Strap: GS-3
- Hand Strap: GS-2
Ricoh has produced a wide-angle conversion lens that takes the standard 28mm view down to a 21mm (in 35mm equivalent). While it does add some extra bulk to an otherwise small camera, it works well and adds a more dramatic, wider view. I have an [in-depth review of it separately](https://havecamerawilltravel.com/photographer/ricoh-gw-4-wide-angle-conversion-lens/).
Something to be aware of, though, is that you will also need to pick up the lens adapter separately. For reasons I really don't understand, the wide-angle conversion lens doesn't come with the adapter, and both are required to make it work. So make sure you pick up one of those at the same time.
Remote Shutter Releases
This is the official Ricoh remote shutter. It connects to the camera via a USB cable, and it's a simple shutter release (i.e., there's no timer or intervalometer).
You can also find aftermarket shutter releases for the GR III.
The Ricoh GR III doesn't have a built-in viewfinder. But they make two versions of an external viewfinder that slides into the camera's hot shoe. It covers both the standard 28mm view as well as the 21mm view if you're using the wide-angle conversion lens. There's also a mini viewfinder; that model seems to be hard to find.
The back screen of the GR III is quite exposed, and if you lie the camera on its back, the screen comes in contact with the surface. Even if you're putting the camera in your pocket, there's a risk of keys or coins scratching the screen.
There's no official screen protector, but there are good aftermarket versions. The one I use is this one. It's essentially a consumable that protects the screen. If you scratch the protector, you can quickly and easily replace it with another from the pack.
You can, of course, use the GR III with just about any camera case or bag. But Ricoh does make a dedicated soft-case that fits snugly around the camera and offers some protection even if you're toting the camera around in your pocket. I've been using one for a couple of years, and it's held up very well, and it keeps my camera safer from bumps and scratches.
Again, there's no particular reason you have to use the official GR neck strap, but there is one. The main part is leather, and it even has a discreet, embossed "GR".
If you do use a different strap, be aware that the strap loops on the camera are very small and won't take thicker (i.e., stronger) attachment loops. So you might need to use some D-rings as well.
There's even an official "GR" leather hand strap! But, again, aside from the branding, there's no special reason to use the official strap. If you do use a different one, you might need D-rings if the thread doesn't go through the camera's small attachment loops.
The GR III doesn't have a built-in flash. It supports the Pentax P-TTL flash protocol.Pentax External Flashes: