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Lemosho Route / Day 6

Arrow Glacier Camp (15,960 ft) > Western Breach > Crater Camp (18,769 ft)

Mt Kilimanjaro Crater Camp Ice Glacier

A glacier next to Crater Camp.

Tanzania // Mount Kilimanjaro Tanzania Location: [post_gps_latitude], [post_gps_longitude]

Our guide was right when he said that today would be the hardest day of the climb. But it was “very doable,” he kept saying. We also found out why we’d had to sign waivers for the Western Breach back to Londorossi Gate. A couple of American climbers and a porter were killed in a rock slide in 2006 on the Western Breach. The route had been closed for a while, but is now open again. New National Park rules require climbers to wear helmets (this applies only to clients, not the porters or guides), although when we were halfway up, standing on ice, looking down, you couldn’t help wonder how much good a helmet was going to do.

Even looking up at the Western Breach from Arrow Glacier gives you a good sense of why it isn’t just a walk in the park. It’s not just that it’s steep–it’s certainly that. But this is a real scramble climb over scree, rocks, and ice. There are no ropes, and this still isn’t technical climbing. But until we reach the top there’s plenty of opportunities for things to go horribly pear shaped very quickly, especially since we’re all definitely feeling the effects of altitude. A dizzy step on a loose rock or slipping on ice wouldn’t be pleasant–there’s nothing to stop a fall of several hundred feet down the Breach face. So we’d best mind our step.

We have to set off well before sunrise, using our headlamps, so that we can reach the top before the sun shines on the rock face. Once it does, the ice that’s holding the scree and rocks in place melts a little, making everything that much more hazardous underfoot.

Yet again, we’re in awe of our porters. They head up without a pause, carrying heavy loads on their shoulders, without helmets, surefooted the entire way. We’re using hiking poles for balance, but they don’t need them. And they make the top in about half the time it takes us. They make it look much easier than it is.

We’re well on our way by the time the sun comes up and we can turn our headlamps off. Stopping for a moment to take in the view, we see the sharp shadow of Kilimanjaro superimposed over Mt Meru off to the west.

Once we reach the top and climb over a ledge, we’re on the crater rim and it’s suddenly flat. We have thick ice glaciers to our left and the last segment of Kibo Summit above us to our right. It’s then a short, easy, flat walk across to where our tents are already set up at Crater Camp.

From here, we could do an afternoon walk over to the actual ash crater rim, but none of us has any energy left for it. A little lie down and some hot tea sounds much more appealing.

We’re now at over 18,700 feet, and each breath brings in barely half the amount of oxygen than our bodies are used to. At this point, we’re constantly exhausted. Our resting heart rates are elevated. We have nausea and headaches.

But tomorrow is summit day.

Mt Kilimanjaro Climbing the Western Breach

Nearly at the top of the Western Breach.

Mt Kilimanjaro Shadow on Mt Meru

The rising sun casts a shadow of Kilimanjaro’s peak on Mount Meru rising up through the clouds.

Mt Kilimanjaro Crater Camp Glacier

Mt Kilimanjaro Crater Camp Ice and Snow

Mt Kilimanjaro Crater Camp and Kibo Summit

Crater Camp.

Mt Kilimanjaro Crater Camp Icy Plateau

Climbing Kilimanjaro

This is part of a climb diary I put together with photos from each day on the Lemosho Route. You can find the other posts below. I’ve also included some gear tips for climbing Kilimanjaro and some ideas on what to expect from your climb.

  • Lemosho Route / Day 1
  • Lemosho Route / Day 2
  • Lemosho Route / Day 3
  • Lemosho Route / Day 4
  • Lemosho Route / Day 5
  • Lemosho Route / Day 6
  • Lemosho Route / Day 7
  • Lemosho Route / Day 8
  • Tips, Gear Recommendations, and What to Expect When Climbing Kilimanjaro

Where to Next?

  • Mt Kilimanjaro Stars and Camp at Lava Tower
    Climbing Kilimanjaro
  • Climbing Mt Kilimanjaro Footprints in the Dirt
    Lemosho Route / Day 3
  • Mt Kilimanjaro Rainforest
    Lemosho Route / Day 8
  • Mt Kilimanjaro Tents and Stars
    Lemosho Route / Day 4
  • Mt Kilimanjaro Beautiful Sunset Above the Clouds
    Lemosho Route / Day 5
  • Mt Kilimanjaro Summit Uhuru Peak
    Lemosho Route / Day 7
  • Climbing Mt Kilimanjaro Tanzania Hikers on Plain with Peak
    Lemosho Route / Day 2
  • Mt Kilimanjaro Lemosho Glades Trailhead Forest Trail
    Lemosho Route / Day 1
  • Mt Kilimanjaro Stars and Camp at Lava Tower
    Climbing Kilimanjaro: Tips, Gear Recommendations, and What to Expect


Travel Advice for Tanzania

You can find the latest U.S. Department of State travel advisories and information for Tanzania (such as entry visa requirements and vaccination requirements) here.

The British and Australian governments offer their own country-specific travel information. You can find the British Government's travel advice for Tanzania here and the Australian Government's here.

Health & Vaccinations

The CDC makes country-specific recommendations for vaccinations and health for travelers. You can find their latest information for Tanzania here.

David Coleman Photography

I take photos. I travel. I write. I do it for a living. Seven continents. Dozens of countries. Up mountains. Under water. And a bunch of places in between. You can find my main site at havecamerawilltravel.com. Or check out what’s in my go-to travel photography kit. Or get in touch here.


Location:
Country: Tanzania
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      # Mount Kilimanjaro Tanzania


About David Coleman

I take photos. I travel. I write. I do it for a living.

I’m based in Washington, DC.

You can find my photography gear reviews and tips at havecamerawilltravel.com/photographer.

David Coleman Photography

I take photos. I travel. I write. I do it for a living. Seven continents. Dozens of countries. Up mountains. Under water. And a bunch of places in between. You can find my main site at havecamerawilltravel.com. Or check out what’s in my go-to travel photography kit. Or get in touch here.

Licensing & Prints

Looking for travel stock photos or prints? I might be able to help. You can search my collection here:

If you already have a buyer account with Alamy and would prefer to use that, you can search my images directly here.

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Photos by David Coleman. Please contact me for licensing images.
All images are registered with the U.S. Copyright Office.


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