The Rugged Charm of the Top of the Land of a Million Elephants

Bumping Along Road Number 13

It’s bumpy, windy, and dusty. And since the road, known only as road number 13, is in much need of repair in many places and makes for such slow-going, you’ll have plenty of time to admire the view.

And what a view it is. The rugged, mountainous terrain of northern Laos is beautiful. Number 13 is one of the very few roads that pass through Luang Namtha and Oudomxai, the second- and third-most northerly of Laos’ seventeen provinces. And if there are few roads, there are even fewer trains—actually, there are none at all in Laos—so road is really your only option for getting around. The single-lane road winds its way along the tops of mountains and along ridges. In many places, it’s best not to look down if you’re nervous about heights, especially since this is not a place where the market for safety barriers is making anyone rich. Some of the road is paved, some isn’t–an annual casualty of the rainy season. So for many miles, you’ll be bumping your way along what amounts to a dirt track.

Every few miles a village straddles the road. The traditional wood and bamboo houses of the Hmong and Kmu sit only a few feet from the road, the Kmu houses on stilts and those of the Hmong low to the ground. And as the Lao government continues its efforts to relocate people from remote villages high in the mountains to new, ethnically integrated villages along the road, where they can more easily have access to basic utilities like electricity and running water, these roadside villages are getting more numerous. But as you pass the steep mountain peaks, you’ll also see in the distance many of the small, wooden huts used by farmers for tending and harvesting their mountain rice fields, often perched on impossibly steep mountainsides approachable only by foot. Integration and consolidation might be the government watchwords of the day, but modernization is still taken in baby steps.

Luang Namtha and Oudomxai provinces are solidly rural. Nevertheless, as remote from the bigger town as some of these villages are, several are quite prosperous thanks to money coming in from their massive northern neighbor: China. A particular specialty, well-suited to the lush terrain, is the growing of rubber trees, and thanks to the voracious appetite of China’s humming industrializing economy for rubber, many of the local villages in this part of northern Laos have become rich, at least by Lao standards.

So lucrative is the oozy crop that the provincial government has evidently decided to turn a blind eye to the creep of farming into the Nam Ha National Bio-Diversity Conservation Area, supposedly an ecologically protected zone. Hillsides have been cleared and rubber plantations encroach well inside the zone’s borders.

It becomes easy, after hours mount up traveling along road number 13, to take this combination of beautiful mountain scenery and small, traditional villages for granted. But it’s a striking contrast to the flat terrain of the town of Luang Namtha. Transliterated as “greater area of the River Nam,” translated as “”Royal Sugar Palm” or “Royal Green River,” and pronounced as “lwung namta” (the “h” of “th” is always silent), the town is a regional hub and a provincial capital–there’s even an airport, albeit not a big one. A shiny, new provincial museum building does double duty as a conference and meeting center. But despite some efforts by the few hotels in town to promote eco and adventure tourism, this is still somewhere off the usual beaten track for tourists.

Which is a shame, because that view along road number 13 is quite something.

More About Luang Namtha Province

• Luang Namtha Province is located in the northwestern part of Laos, bordering China and Myanmar.
• The province is home to the Nam Ha National Protected Area, a biodiversity hotspot spanning over 2,224 square kilometers.
• Luang Namtha is known for its ethnic diversity, with over 20 different ethnic groups living in the region.
• The province is a popular destination for trekking and eco-tourism, offering various trails and nature experiences.
• Luang Namtha town, the provincial capital, serves as a hub for travelers and a base for exploring the surrounding areas.

Luang Namtha Province, situated in the northwestern part of Laos, is well-known for its ethnic diversity and stunning natural landscapes. With over 20 different ethnic groups residing in the region, visitors have the opportunity to experience a rich tapestry of cultures and traditions. The Nam Ha National Protected Area, a biodiversity hotspot covering over 2,224 square kilometers, is a significant draw for eco-tourists and nature enthusiasts.

Trekking is a popular activity in Luang Namtha Province, with numerous trails offering varying levels of difficulty and terrain. The region is committed to sustainable eco-tourism, providing travelers with authentic and responsible travel experiences. The provincial capital, Luang Namtha town, serves as a convenient hub for visitors, offering accommodations, restaurants, and access to surrounding attractions.

What’s Nearby to Luang Namtha Province

• Nam Ha National Protected Area: A large conservation area with diverse flora and fauna, offering eco-tourism and trekking opportunities.
• The Luang Namtha Stupa: An impressive golden stupa located on a hill overlooking the town.
• Ban Nam Dee Waterfall: A picturesque waterfall accessible by a short hike, with swimming and picnic areas.
• Traditional ethnic villages: Numerous villages throughout the province where visitors can learn about local customs and traditions.

How to Get to Luang Namtha Province

• Luang Namtha Province is located in the northwestern part of Laos.
• The nearest major airport is Luang Prabang International Airport (LPQ) in Luang Prabang.
• From Luang Prabang, travelers can take a bus or arrange private transportation to Luang Namtha town, which takes approximately 6-8 hours.
• Within the province, local transportation options include tuk-tuks, songthaews, and bicycles for hire.

What to Know Before You Go

There is a small airport in Luang Namtha, but in general, this isn’t somewhere you just turn up on a whim. There are some tourist lodgings, but in general, it doesn’t have a lot of infrastructure in place for foreign visitors. Much of the people coming in and out of the area are related to the Chinese companies in the area. Of course, being off the beaten tourist track definitely has its appeal.

Dive Deeper into Laos In These Books

If you’re looking to explore Laos more deeply on the written page, here are some books worth a look.

Another Quiet American: Stories of Life in Laos, by Brett Dakin

This memoir recounts the experiences of the author as he works for the Lao government in the early 2000s, providing an insightful look at the country’s culture, people, and the challenges faced by a developing nation.

Ant Egg Soup: The Adventures of a Food Tourist in Laos, by Natacha Du Pont De Bie

A culinary travelogue that explores the rich and diverse cuisine of Laos, following the author as she samples various dishes and learns about the culture and traditions surrounding Laotian food.

Bamboo Palace: Discovering the Lost Dynasty of Laos, by Christopher Kremmer

This historical travelogue follows the author’s journey through Laos as he uncovers the history of the lost royal dynasty and the impact of the Vietnam War on the country.

Laos: A Journey Beyond the Mekong, by Ben Davies

This beautifully illustrated travelogue explores the diverse landscapes, culture, and history of Laos, providing a comprehensive and engaging look at the country.

A Short Ride in the Jungle: The Ho Chi Minh Trail by Motorcycle, by Antonia Bolingbroke-Kent

In this adventurous travelogue, the author embarks on a daring motorcycle journey along the Ho Chi Minh Trail, which passes through Laos, providing insights into the country’s history and the challenges faced by modern-day Laos.

The Ravens: The True Story of a Secret War in Laos, Vietnam, by Christopher Robbins

This memoir recounts the experiences of American pilots who secretly participated in the covert war in Laos during the Vietnam War, offering a unique perspective on the conflict and its effects on the people of Laos.

Mekong: A Journey on the Mother of Waters, by Milton Osborne

In this travelogue, the author journeys along the Mekong River, which runs through Laos, exploring the history, culture, and natural beauty of the region.

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