To appreciate the contrast all these changes made one must have known Brussels in the days before the war. It was not only the gayest but the happiest of cities. In the population there was a fine joviality, that joyousness that came down from the days when Rubens and Jordaens and Teniers were painting ‘la view plantureuse’ (abundant life) of Flanders. [Washington Post, 1918]1
The Belgians take their art seriously. And for good reason. “Italian painters” and “Dutch painters” might roll off the tongue more naturally, but for a long time the Flemish were the pinnacle of the art world. The Belgians, along with the Dutch, turned Flanders into a major draw for aspiring artists from all over Europe. And the booming sea trade through the ports of Antwerp, Bruges, and Amsterdam created wealthy benefactors, in turn creating a market for art.
Some of that art is now on display in the Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium in Brussels.
Belgian has found itself in the middle of a good many European wars over the centuries, but they thankfully hid the art well, keeping it safe from the sticky fingers of invading armies.2
There are over 20,000 pieces of art in the Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium. The oldest date back to the early 15th century. But it’s the collection of Flemish Baroque painting that it’s particularly proud of. Their paintings have beautifully rich yet surprisingly subtle colors that almost seem to glow.
The museum’s highlights include rich collections of the 17th-century Antwerp school of Flemish Baroque, with works by Peter Paul Rubens, Anthony van Dyck, and Jacob Jordaens. The large Rubens room, with its red walls, space, and massive Rubens paintings, is especially impressive.
But it’s not just the artworks hanging on the walls and standing on pedestals that are impressive. The building itself is a work of architectural art. It was designed by Belgian architect Alphone Balat and bankrolled by King Leopold II. It was originally designed to be the Palais des Beaux-Arts and finished in 1887. Its beautifully opulent main hall, with the light pouring in through its massive skylight ceiling, is particularly striking. And, fittingly, occupying pride of place in the center of the hall is a sculpture of King Leopold II himself, the museum’s original benefactor greeting every visitor.
Photos of the Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium
What to Know Before You Go
The Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium is just a stone’s through from the Royal Palace, and adjacent to the Magritte Museum. It’s also close to the Musical Instruments Museum.
You can find visitor information here.
Map
- Brand Whitlock, “When ‘Gay Brussels’ Became the World’s Saddest City: How the Brave Inhabitants of Belgium’s Capital Defied the Germans, Closed the Shutters on Their Homes, Deserted the Theaters, Prohibited Evening Dress and Made Vows to Wear Black Until the End of the War,” Washington Post, 25 August 1918, SMT4. ↩
- Walter Duranty, “Bruges Intact; Art Work Saved,” New York Times, 23 October 1918. ↩
Where to Next?
Travel Advice for Belgium
You can find the latest U.S. Department of State travel advisories and information for Belgium (such as entry visa requirements and vaccination requirements) here.
The British and Australian governments offer their own country-specific travel information. You can find the British Government's travel advice for Belgium here and the Australian Government's here.
Health & Vaccinations
The CDC makes country-specific recommendations for vaccinations and health for travelers. You can find their latest information for Belgium here.
Guidebooks for Belgium
If you're looking for a guidebook to make the most of your visit, these are some of the most popular ones currently for Belgium. Some are available in both paper and e-book formats.
- Steves, Rick (Author)
- English (Publication Language)
- Elliott, Mark (Author)
- English (Publication Language)
- Amazon Kindle Edition
- English (Publication Language)
- DK Eyewitness (Author)
- English (Publication Language)
Travel Insurance For Your Trip to Belgium
I never travel without travel insurance, and I've run into several situations where I've had to make claims. I consider it essential.
But shopping for travel insurance can be a pain and confusing. Thankfully, there are some travel insurance comparison sites that show you a wide range of plans, make it easy to compare coverage, and can save you money at the same time. And the coverage can be much better tailored to your specific needs than the checkbox offering at travel booking sites or through your credit card.
These are some good places to shop for travel insurance for your next trip to Belgium :
Hopefully, you won't need it, but if something goes wrong, you'll sure be glad you have it!