GPS Trackers for Photographers

For travel photography, location matters. Whether you’re trying to track your adventures on a map or enter caption information in the image metadata, it helps to know exactly where a photo was taken.

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Filed Under: Geotagging, Reviews
Topics: GPS

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For travel photography, location matters. Whether you’re trying to track your adventures on a map or enter caption information in the image metadata, it helps to know exactly where a photo was taken.

There are all sorts of things you can do with that location information paired with photos or videos. You can pin the photos automatically on Google Earth orea Flickr or 500px and have them show up on a map view that traces your route. It’s also very helpful when adding metadata for editorial assignments or stock photography. Photo editors at magazines and newspapers expect something more specific in the caption information than “a church in Granada” or “a fish market in Istanbul.”

It would be nice if my memory was perfect and that when I sat down to edit my photos when I got home from a trip I could remember exactly the spot where each photo was taken. It all seems crystal clear at the time, but after several days or even weeks of travel, details like that can become a bit of a blur. Even if I’m entering caption information with a laptop while on the road, it takes a lot of time cross-referencing with maps to relocate the spot precisely.

A much better option is to have information about the precise spot where the photo was taken embedded with the photo itself. It’s known as geotagging.

It’s entirely possible to manually geotag photos. There are quite a lot of apps that let you pin photos on a map manually. And some cameras, especially smartphones, have the built-in capability to embed geographic data into the photos.

But what if your camera doesn’t have built-in location tools or you have no interest in manually geotagging hundreds or even thousands of photos?

That’s where a GPS tracker (or GPS data logger) comes in. It’s a device that picks up the signal from GPS satellites and records a track of location. Some trackers are wristwatches. Some are handheld devices. Others are dongles you attach to a camera. And some are designed to be hidden discreetly.

Here’s a roundup of what’s available. It’s not exhaustive by any means–especially true of the many other handheld GPS navigation devices that are available–but it includes some of the better and more interesting options that are likely to be of interest to photographers.

Some countries, like China, are sensitive to foreigners using GPS devices within their borders and may have laws against it. So it’s worth doing some research ahead of time to make sure you don’t inadvertently run afoul of anti-espionage laws in whatever country you’re visiting.

What to Look For

There’s a huge variety of devices that can log GPS data, and over the years I’ve tried quite a few different ones. Some only log tracks, while others can do all sorts of other things as well like acting as GPS hubs for other devices, serving as emergency beacons, providing directions, or sending two-way text communications. Each has its own mix of features and its own pros and cons. Some might be better for boating, some for hiking, or maybe even for sneakily hiding under a car chassis to track someone secretly. Some even have specialized functions that help automatically align telescopes for night-sky photography.

For geotagging photos, there are some features that matter more than others. A make-or-break feature is the ability to export the track file so that you can then import it into your geotagging software. Some trackers use a proprietary system that locks you into their own software applications. But you want something where you can download the track file. GPX is the most widely-used standard format, although it can also be possible to convert other formats. If you can’t download the tracking file then you’ll have no way to cross-reference it with your photos.

Another thing to look for is a long battery life. Having to recharge or replace batteries every few hours isn’t much good. GPS systems take a reasonable amount of power to operate, but newer generation devices are getting better about battery efficiency with better quality batteries and strategies like intervals between tracking points that help extend battery life.

There are also things that are nice to have. The latest generation of GPS receivers tend pick up satellite signals more quickly and reliably than older models, and higher end models lock into alternative and complementary satellite and location systems to make them more accurate and reliable. There are a number of things that can affect how quickly the receiver will lock onto the satellites’ signals, and you’ll almost inevitably find times when you’re wishing it would just hurry up and lock in already, but the latest generation of receivers can often lock on in under 30 seconds or so from a cold start and in far less than that from a warm or hot start. It’s handy to be able to have some kind of indicator so that you can get visual confirmation that the receiver has locked onto the satellite signals. On some that’s a small LED, while on others it can be on an LCD screen.

A device that can put up with the rigors of travel–that can take some bumps and isn’t too worried by water–is also important for out-and-about travel photography.

Some high end trackers phone home via satellite or cell system to show your location on a website in real-time so that friends and loved ones can see where you are at any given time. Many also have a personal locator beacon function for emergencies, and some have the ability to send text messages via satellite (known as satellite messengers). The devices that fall into this category typically involve a subscription fee and can end up being quite pricey. Among the best known is the SPOT tracker, but others, like DeLorme have entered the market in recent years. Those kinds of features are well over and above what’s needed for geotagging photos, but many of the same devices also work quite well for creating simple GPS tracks.

Dedicated Camera GPS Taggers

These little devices plug directly into the camera itself. Some draw from the camera’s power supply, and some have their own battery. Most can embed GPS data directly into the photos’ EXIF metadata as you take them. They will only work with one camera at a time (an issue if you’re using multiple cameras), some draw down the camera’s power supply, and they tend to stick out from the camera and can be pretty easily knocked off if you’re putting a camera in and out of a bag.

Nikon GP-1A

nikon gp1 gpsThis one is designed for Nikon DSLRs. It won’t work with every Nikon camera, and some Nikon cameras require a different cable, so be sure to get the correct accessory cable for your camera model. The GP-1 has also been out for several years now and it’s not as quick locking on as some of the newer generations of GPS receivers. I personally don’t like the way it can be knocked off the camera easily–my camera tends to go in and out of its bag a lot–but the advantage is that it’s right there and the metadata gets written directly. It’s available at Amazon | B&H Photo.


Canon GP-E2

canon gps
Canon makes two GPS devices for its cameras; this is the more widely-compatible one. It is powered by its own AA battery, has its own built-in compass, and can act as a standalone GPS logger. One small feature I like is that it can automatically synchronize the camera’s clock based on super-accurate GPS data. Be sure to check that it’s compatible with your camera model. It’s available from Amazon | B&H Photo.


Promote GPS for Nikon and FujiFilm

This is a third-party dedicated camera GPS data logger. It sits in the camera’s hotshoe and draws power from the camera’s communication port. Because it’s designed to work with a specific style of communication port–and not all Nikon and Fuji DSLR’s use the same port–be sure to check compatibility with your camera. I have the same problem with hot-shoe mounted devices as I do with ones that plug into the data sockets–that is, they can too easily be bumped. But if you’re not putting your camera in and out of a bag constantly, that’s less of an issue. It’s available at Amazon | B&H Photo.


Marrex MX-G10M for Canon

This one is larger than some of the other dedicated camera GPS receivers, but that’s mainly because it has its own battery so doesn’t draw power from the camera (though it does embed the GPS data directly into photos’ EXIF fields). Be sure to check compatibility with your camera model. It’s available at Amazon.


Foolography Unleashed D200+

unleashed gps This one is a dedicated camera device, but it works a bit differently. By itself, it doesn’t pick up GPS signals, and you’ll still need a separate standalone GPS receiver (sold separately). When you pair the two with Bluetooth, this little device takes the GPS data from the receiver and embeds the information in the EXIF data of the photo, thus saving you the step of using software to integrate the GPS data to your photos. Writing this post reminded me that I’ve actually had one of these for several years (it was originally launched to be paired with the Nikon D200, hence the name). But I find that I rarely use it because I don’t find the convenience of having the GPS data already in the EXIF fields to outweigh the inconvenience of pairing the devices, making sure they’re properly connected, and dealing with two pieces of gear however small they might be. It also needs a modification to work with the cameras I use most of the time these days. That said, everyone’s needs and preferences are different, and this is a good fit for some–especially if you already have a compatible standalone GPS receiver. Here’s the list of compatible GPS receivers, and here’s the list of compatible cameras. It’s available directly from the manufacturer.


Standalone GPS Data Loggers

These are standalone GPS devices that you can attach to the outside of your camera bag, belt, kayak, or anything else that you’re taking with you. Features vary quite a lot between the devices–some, for instance, are more water resistant than others–so be sure that the features match your needs. Some are quite inexpensive, while others can be very pricey indeed.

These don’t embed the GPS information directly into the photo’s EXIF metadata at the time you take the photo, so geotagging your photos involves an extra step of using software to correlate the GPS tracklog with the image file. But one of the biggest advantages of using a standalone device rather than a dedicated camera one is that you can use the GPS track on photos taken with any camera, whether that’s a DSLR, compact, or GoPro. And if you’re shooting with multiple cameras, you can use the same track for all of them (having the cameras’ clocks synchronized makes that much easier).

Holux GPS Data Logger

holux gps This is one of the smallest and most popular simple data loggers. It’s quite tiny compared to some of the others. There are no fancy display screens–just a few indicator LEDs. Battery life is up to 20 hours or so. It’s available at Amazon.


Bad Elf GPS Pro

This small standalone GPS data logger has good battery life (up to 32 hours), is splash-proof, and its LCD screen has useful information like speed, heading, altitude, battery status, and current accuracy status. One of its defining features is that it can connect up to 5 other devices to it via Bluetooth to share GPS data with phones or tablets. It’s available at Amazon, B&H Photo, and Best Buy.


Bushnell BackTrack D-Tour

One of the nice features of this model is that it has an unusually detailed display with useful information. But it doesn’t have much internal memory for storing tracks–up to 48 hours worth of data. It’s available at Amazon.


Canmore G-Porter

canmore gps This is on the cheaper and simpler end of the market, but it’s also small and lightweight and has surprisingly good features for the price. It has a built-in loop, so you can easily attach it to the outside of your camera bag or belt. It’s available at Amazon.


Garmin Foretrex

garmin foretrex gps This GPS navigator and tracker is worn on the wrist and is designed for hiking and other outdoor activities. It’s well-regarded for its accuracy, but it’s worth nothing that it doesn’t display maps. It runs on 2 AAA batteries with an expected battery life of 17 hours. It also includes sun and moon information. It’s available at Amazon.


Garmin eTrex 10

Nearly all of the traditional handheld GPS navigators allow you to download GPS track files, and most of them will work quite well for geotagging if you can attach it to your camera bag or belt so that you can keep your hands free for taking photos. One issue most of them face, though, is that the map navigation screens burn through battery power, so their battery life is often shorter than some of the options without the navigation screens. There are many different models in this category; this one is one of the most basic and among the cheapest of the options, but the more feature-rich models also work well. It’s available at Amazon. Magellan also has some good ones.


Garmin Fenix 3 GPS Watch

garmin fenix 3 gps This one’s a little out of left field, because it’s really designed as a sports watch and it has a lot of functionality beyond simple GPS tracking. But it also happens to make a surprisingly useful travel watch that also logs GPS tracks that can be used for geotagging–in fact, it’s the solution I now use when I’m traveling. It’s far pricier than most of the other options above, so you’d probably want to get more use out of it than just geotagging. I have a separate in-depth review of using the Garmin Fenix 3 for geotagging photos. It’s available from Amazon, B&H Photo, REI, and Best Buy.

Adventure GPS Devices

This category is designed for people heading off the beaten path. They log GPS, can share your tracks in real-time on the web, and have text messaging capabilities. They’re also designed to offer peace-of-mind as emergency locator beacons if you run into trouble and need to send an SOS for emergency assistance (though they’re not a substitute for a proper commercial-grade emergency beacon like an EPIRB if you’re heading into potentially dangerous situations like out to sea). They also require subscription to work, which can add to the cost considerably.

SPOT 3 Satellite Messenger

spot gps SPOT was one of the earliest and best-known of these personal satellite messengers. It requires a service plan to really put it to use; here are the rates. I used a SPOT 2 for a couple of years off and on and would be a bit lukewarm on recommending that model, but the manufacturer claims improvements in the latest model. Most of my frustrations concerned the messaging and real-time track sharing features–the basic tracking part worked well enough. One annoyance, though, with the Generation 2 Spot (and I haven’t checked with the Generation 3) is that you could only download GPX data up to 2 weeks old, and it had to be downloaded from their website. After 2 weeks, the data got wiped and was unrecoverable. So you’ll want to be sure to download the GPX data asap. It’s available at Amazon and REI.


DeLorme inReach

delorme gps This looks much like your traditional hand-held GPS device. Like the SPOT 3, the DeLorme features real-time tracking (and track sharing) and emergency SOS. It also requires a subscription to use most of the features; here are the various plans. But it has more advanced messaging capabilities (including two-way messaging) and more flexibility in its settings. This is the base model; there’s also one with navigation features. It’s available at Amazon and REI.



iphone 6 Most smartphones have GPS or a hybrid GPS system built in. With the help of a tracking app, you can make use of that functionality to create GPS tracks and export them as GPX files. Some of the iPhone apps worth looking at are Travel Kit Pro, Trckr, Trails, or Geotag Photos Pro, but there are also plenty of others. I’m not as familiar with Android apps, but there are many available for that too. Here are some more ideas worth exploring.

The upside is that you probably already have your smartphone with you and a cheap or even free app can turn it into a GPS tracker that you can then use to geotag photos taken with cameras other than the built-in phone camera. There are two main negatives. The first is that GPS tracking tends to burn through battery power quickly. If you’re heading out for an hour or two that’s not big deal, but if you’re heading out for a 2-day or more hike, or even walking around town all day, it’s more of an issue, especially if you need your phone for other things. The second is that the GPS reception in smartphones is okay but not great. If you want to beef up the reliability and speed, you can use a separate device like this one that enhances the GPS reception and feeds that data wirelessly to your phone or tablet.

David Coleman / Photographer
by David Coleman

I'm a professional freelance travel photographer based in Washington DC. Seven continents, up mountains, underwater, and a bunch of places in between. My images have appeared in numerous publications, and you can check out some of my travel photography here. More »

36 thoughts on “GPS Trackers for Photographers”

  1. Hi!

    I had the Hasselblad GPS module mounted on my camera and it broke when my camera fell on the ground.
    It was super slow to catch a satellite signal anyway (minimum 5 minutes, sometimes never) so it’s not a big loss (at least it cushioned the camera’s fall).

    But I do need a GPS device so I can know where my shots were taken.
    I sometimes use the iPhone GPS, but often I can’t get a signal as I’m in the middle of nowhere.

    My question : does anybody use a GPS tracker and how good are they?
    I basically just need something where I can push a button on the GPS to record the “when/where” whenever I make a shot with the X1D in order to later compare the time / date of the shot and the GPS tracker. Does this exist?

    Any help would be appreciated! thanks


    • They’re getting pretty good these days and are generally much quicker than what you describe with the older model (though it very much depends where you are, how strong the signal is, and how much you’re moving). I’m not familiar with Hasselblads and don’t know if there are any that will connect directly into the camera to write to the image’s EXIF info while the image is being saved. But there are several models of external trackers that can independently record a track of your movements. You can then use software to like HoudahGeo to pair the track with the images.

      • Hi David, thanks for replying.
        In the meanwhile I found out that my TomTom Rider 550 allows me to record the route while I ride.
        Normally I should be able to export the resulting file and import it into Lightroom.
        I’m going to do some tests, but I think it should work.

        • Great! Some GPS units don’t make it as easy as it could be to get the file off in a usable format, but it looks like you should be able to export a GPX file from that one.

  2. FYI, I have two Nikon Coolpix cameras that I use for general travel photography, the S9700 and the P900, both of which have GPS receivers built in as standard. There’s not much to differentiate between the two in terms of GPS performance, although I prefer the S9700 for simple convenience – just because I can stick it in a pocket. It can be a little tiresome to get these cameras to sync up with the GPS constellation when I’ve moved far from the last recorded location, and equally tiresome to get them to synchronize clock to “satellite time.” For pure GPS performance, I prefer the S9700 version for two aspects: first, it has a built-in magnetic compass that captures the approximate pointing-angle of the camera along with location in EXIF; second, it comes with a simple mapping (WGS-84) capability and some POI data that can help with street navigation. These additional functions are missing from the much bigger P900, for no obvious reason. Neither camera is particularly outstanding for hi-res photography, but they make very good cameras for “tourism” purposes, and Nikon has some free viewing software that supports geo-plotting of photo locations.

    • Interesting. Thanks for sharing. I’ve not used either of those cameras, although the zoom on the P900 caught my attention.

  3. Hi David

    I was missing the i-gotU GT600 in your comparison ). It plays in the same league as the Holux GPS Data Logger, i.e. very simplistic, just one button and two LEDs, and waterproof.
    I’ve been using this device and its predecessors for quite some years now and I was always very happy. Apart from its large memory (256k way points) I especially like its battery life which can last for several days depending on how you’re moving (it has a motion sensor built-in); continuously running I’ve seen the battery lasting for up to 2 days.

    best, Stephan

    • Thanks for the tip–will check it out. I’ve been meaning to return to this post and refresh with updates since it was originally published some time ago.

  4. Hey David… I’m coming a bit late in the discussion, but I’ve got a couple of questions which I’m hoping you can answer.

    Is the “time stamp” from the camera then used by the GPS tracker to place the image in it’s corresponding specific location?
    If so, how does one retain the “time stamp” after editing photos?

    I take a lot of travel photographs, but I always edit them to some extent before placing them online. Any suggestions would be most appreciated. Thank you.

    Cheers ~ cm

    • They use the Date Taken time field that’s included in the image EXIF metadata. Cameras include that by default, and standard editing doesn’t remove it or change that field. It is possible to remove it through something like Lightroom’s export function by choosing a limited field like Copyright Only from the options (which removes all metadata expect the copyright field, but that’s really just not including it in a new exported copy of the image rather than stripping it) or running it through an image optimizer like ImageOptim. But those are things you have to do pretty deliberately. The other common way that metadata goes missing is by uploading to some of the major social media services and then downloading from there. Facebook, for instance, strips the metadata. More photo-friendly services like Flickr don’t.

      What the geocoding apps do is take the EXIF date and the GPS log’s dates and correlate them with each other. That means, of course, that you’ve either got to have your camera’s date set correctly or be able to compensate for the offset in the geocoding apps (a feature meany of them have).

      An advantage of the trackers that plug directly into the camera is that they usually write the GPS location directly into the image EXIF metadata, which eliminates steps and room for error.

  5. When I am traveling, I just used my smartphone to capture photographs and just manually geotag my photos so I will not forget the exact location of where the photo was taken.

    • Yes, that’s certainly one approach. It tends not to work as well when not using or traveling with a smartphone or on extended trips–locations can easily start to blur into one another.

  6. Why there are so few cameras with built in GPS?
    I used to have a compact panasonic which had it but since then I moved to DSLR and I’m now struggling to find built in GPS.
    Also in the mirrorless world seems like everybody has forgotten about gps. How can that be?
    Even if it didn’t work 100% of the time it was still better than using a smartphone

    • There are a few reasons. Real GPS sucks a lot of battery life, and most cameras don’t have big enough batteries to do that and take many photos. There’s also a lag in picking up the GPS signal. In practice many people take photos shortly after powering the camera on, which will often end up being before the GPS gets a lock. And it’s an added expense. Those of us who use it find it invaluable, but I suspect the camera manufacturers have looked at the market and judged that most of their potential customers don’t see it as a must-have feature–at least, not at added expense or extra battery drain. But I agree–I would love to have proper, reliable GPS built in rather than having to deal with it separately. Some of the newer cameras do include a kind of hybrid system that picks up off wifi, but the results are mixed at best and it’s not much good off the wifi grid.

  7. Hi, David. Thank you for this article and the review of the Garmin Fenix 3. Do you know if Garmin’s Vivoactive watch can also be used for geotagging, as you’re doing with the Fenix? Vivoactive is half the price of Fenix, and I don’t necessarily need all the crosstraining features that the Fenix has.

    • That’s a newer watch that I don’t know much about. From a quick look at the specs, it should work, although it has less battery life. But I haven’t personally tried it and don’t know whether there are any quirks with getting tracks files off of it, its GPS accuracy, etc.

      • OK, thanks for the thoughts, David. On paper things look possible, but as you said, there might be quirks with getting track files from the watch.

  8. hello everyone!
    how can i activate the nikon D800 using trimble GPS (R4 GNSS rover antenna). this will be attached to the aircraft for aerial surveying, thus to have an accurate coordinates of the images.

    thank you!

  9. Thanks for the great review, but I have to say I really hated the Holux. I bought one for our trip to Yellowstone and the points it plotted were everywhere but where we were, not only that the time was off, despite my setting it when I left home. It seems that it’s an idea who’s time hasn’t come yet.

  10. I have a hard time having one extra thing to charge and download every night, so I prefer the Columbus v990 since it has a 2gb memory card so you can have many months of datapoints and in “spy mode” it logs every few minutes and can last a month battery life. the chipset is a bit old now so it’s not as good indoors as some but haven’t found a replacement yet. strangely one of things keeping me from switching to a sony dslr is lack of gps that writes directly to the file. I just use the colubmbus as a backup. best is my 1d x which uses the camera battery for gps so I don’t accidentally miss that the gps battery has died silently.

  11. Hi, I am using a GoPro to do a timelapse over four weeks. It would afterwards be nice to see, where I was in comparison to the video. I also would like to take smaller videos with my GoPro and know, where they were taken. What do you recommend for this? I do not care so much about accuracy, I just want estimate. I’d prefer a solution, that doesn’t require very little to no work. Is there even something out there that does that? Or should I take a different camera?

    • Any of the standalone trackers will do that. If this is a one-off thing, the cheapest one above is the Canmore, followed by the Bushnell and the Holux. They’re small and portable. If you’re just looking to mark the spot where you’re starting or finishing each clip, a smartphone app will do the trick nicely too and if you’re already using a smartphone it’s a lot cheaper still.

      But no, there’s no reason to use a different camera. It sounds to me that the best, simplest, and cheapest solution is to use your GoPro to shoot and your smartphone with a GPS tracking app to create the track that you can then display on Google Maps, Google Earth, or any other mapping service or software that lets you import tracklogs (here are some ideas). If you’re heading somewhere more off the grid where keeping a cell phone charged might be tricky, one of the standalone GPS trackers is worth looking at.

      If you’re using more than one camera, it makes things a lot easier if you synchronize the camera’s clocks before you start.

      • Hi David, thanks for your answer. For the small shots, I’ll definitely do what you recommended.
        But I am still not sure on how to combine the time-lapse with my position. The GPS would have to run for four weeks and continuously store the data. Can I do this with the Canmore? Power or the connection to a computer/internet is not a problem. I just need it to I don’t have to worry about it.

        • None of them have battery life that will last 4 weeks on their own, but you can either recharge or replace the batteries or, in some cases, plug them in to external power like a car charger on the dash, etc.

          Geotagging works best with still photos because it’s a specific point in space at a specific point in time. It’s trickier to combine with video if you’re changing location during the course of the video. It’s very easy to mark start and stop points but gets much trickier if you’re trying to mark in progress points.

          If you’re shooting still photos in Timelapse Photo mode on the GoPros then you can use software to batch apply the GPS tracks to the photos before you compile them to video. It’s not going to solve the issue of visualizing the end result of in-progress video on a map, but you’ll at least then have reliable reference points that you can use to manually plot on a map. If you’re shooting in the GoPro’s Timelapse Video mode where it compiles the video in-camera, it’s going to be much harder to correlate the reference points and you’ll have to do it manually. The problem is that there’s no way to record location and time metadata in the individual frames of video, which is essentially what still photos do.

        • I was awake of the video problem, but I thought, that there might be a possibility to somehow use the timestamp feature of the GoPro and automatically connect the time-stamps to a “GPS-Stamp”, but I probably have to look deeper into that. Thanks anyway for your help.

        • I can think of one way that’s pretty clunky and would only work if you’re shooting in Timelapse Photo mode…. add the GPS coordinates to every still photo and then use something like Lightroom to imprint the GPS coordinates onto the bottom corner of the photo. Then compile the timelapse. You’ll end up with a blurry data feed of digits in the video, but if you stop playback at any point you should have frame-by-frame GPS coordinates. There’s no way to automatically then plot that on a map, but you’ll at least be able to manually plot key waypoints.

        • Although this is possible, this is too “bad-looking” for me. It was more intended to use it as a help for orientation. I will be sailing so I just wanted to know, which bay is which picture, nothing more. I’ll look deeper into the “Time-Stamp” feature of GoPro.

        • Many marine navigation GPS units will also export tracklogs, and they tend to be far more accurate and robust than handheld units. Have a great trip!

        • Just adding this in case anyone else is looking to do something similar. While it’s not specifically GPS, here’s a really neat script I just came across for adding timestamp and other data overlays onto GoPro video as it shoots. Not sure if there’s a way to use a GPS as a sensor, but it could be a useful lead for someone with coding chops.

        • Of course I will, but I am not sure if this is even possible. I’ll do my best and thanks for your help.

  12. I am using a GPS integrated compact camera and not happy with the results. The GPS reception is poor even under best weather conditions and in open areas. My smartphones reception is much better not sure why. I am really interested in the performance of standalone GPS trackers.

    I hope more cameras start using geotagging like smartphones do, and when they, hope they use better chips. As a side note, If you just want a quick and easy way to visualise a photos location online, I would suggest which utilizes EXIF GPS information to map a photo.

    • I’ve only used a few cameras with built-in GPS, but I’ve always been underwhelmed either by the performance or the battery life or the dead GPS air you end up with when you turn the camera off to put in the bag and then pull it back out of the bag to take photos. I much prefer to use a standalone device.


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