Nikon’s 24-70mm f/2.8E is a newer version of this versatile zoom, replacing the older Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8G. The headline feature is that it adds vibration reduction to gain a few extra usable stops when shooting handheld.
You can find more details in my review of this lens, but the short version is that I found the optical performance of this lens to be excellent. It has a fast maximum aperture of f/2.8 that remains stable throughout the zoom range and also has vibration reduction. But it’s also bigger and heavier than you’d expect for a lens in these focal point ranges.
Nikon AF-S FX NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8E ED Vibration Reduction Zoom Lens with...
- Fast f/2.8 constant aperture with an electromagnetic diaphragm
- Sensational image quality and sharpness with virtually no distortion, Focal Length Range : 24 to 70...
Sample Images taken with a Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8E ED VR Lens
Here are some sample images shot with this lens across a range of different subject matters designed to test various aspects in real-world shooting. Click on the photos below for full-size versions.
Where to Find Them
You can find them at B&H Photo, Adorama, and Amazon.
If you’re in the market for a used copy, there are good odds of finding one at KEH, which is my go-to source of used photography gear.
Nikon AF-S FX NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8E ED Vibration Reduction Zoom Lens with...
- Fast f/2.8 constant aperture with an electromagnetic diaphragm
- Sensational image quality and sharpness with virtually no distortion, Focal Length Range : 24 to 70...
Nikon AF-S FX NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8G ED Zoom Lens with Auto Focus for Nikon...
- Focal Length Range : 24 70 mm
- Minimum Focus Distance : 1.2 ft.( 0.38 m)
You can rent them at BorrowLenses and LensProtoGo.
Accessories for the Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8E ED VR Lens
Filters. The Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8E ED VR Lens takes standard 82mm screw-in filters: Polarizer | UV/Haze | ND.
Lens Hood. It comes with a plastic petal-style lens hood. If you need a replacement, the model number is HB-74.
Lens Caps. It takes standard Nikon front and rear lens caps. Aftermarket versions are usually cheaper and work just as well.
Lens Case. It comes with a semi-soft lens case. There’s no particular reason you have to stick to the official Nikon one, but if you’re after a replacement, the model number is CL-M3.
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4 Responses
Mine is a nikon 4100.not a full frame. What nikon 24-70mm lense do I use, Ed?
A Nikon Coolpix 4100? Since that’s a point and shoot that doesn’t support interchangeable lenses, I assume you mean a different model (Nikon D3100, perhaps?). Nikon DSLRs have two sensor sizes, known as FX (full-frame) and DX (cropped sensor).
So it sounds like you’re using a DX-sensor camera. The traditional choice on a DX camera would be 17-55mm ƒ/2.8G. You can use this 24-70mm on it, but the focal length will be closer (i.e., more telephoto) and be the equivalent of using a 36-105mm lens.
I have a D 810 & Nikon 24-70 mm lens and I too often end up with a soft image.
I shoot on Auto, yet I’m careful to give the camera/lens an extra second to lock in.
On occasion there is a delay of the shutter engaging , not sure why this happens.
I don’t change my setting often except for ISO and F stops. I have come a long way in the last 3 years,
but always something new to learn.
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. This is a camera/lens combination I’ve used a lot, and having such a long delay isn’t normal. There are all sorts of reasons that come to mind that might be causing it–I’ll start with the ones I’d look at first.
– Make sure battery is fully charged (it’s unlikely to be this since you’re seeing it consistently, but still doesn’t hurt to mention it).
– Clean the contacts between the lens and the camera. A standard lens wipe should do the trick, but if that doesn’t there are some more specialized sprays for cleaning electronic contacts.
– Try changing the focusing mode. On the front of the camera, find the AF/M switch. Press and hold the button in the middle of that. Then rotate the dial on the back with your right thumb between settings like AF-S, AF-C, and AF-F. You most likely have it on AF-S, from the sounds of it. There’s nothing wrong with that, but seeing if switching to AF-C resolves the delay will be a helpful step in isolating the problem. More info here.
Those are some ideas to start with. If you’re getting consistently soft images, you might need to finetune the camera/lens combination. You can find instructions for doing that here. But that probably doesn’t account for the slow responsiveness of the shutter.