Nikon’s 24-70mm f/2.8E is a newer version of this versatile zoom, replacing the older Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8G. The headline feature is that it adds vibration reduction to gain a few extra usable stops when shooting handheld.
- Fast f/2.8 constant aperture with an electromagnetic diaphragm
- Sensational image quality and sharpness with virtually no distortion, Focal Length Range : 24 to 70...
You can find more details in my review of this lens, but the short version is that I’ve found the optical performance of this lens to be excellent. It has a fast maximum aperture of f/2.8 that remains stable throughout the zoom range and also has vibration reduction. But it’s also bigger and heavier than you’d expect for a lens in these focal point ranges. And it is one of the lenses that spends quite a bit of time on my camera.
This lens is designed for Nikon’s FX DSLRs. It will work on the Z-series mirrorless cameras with the addition of the FTZ adapter, but there’s also a 24-70mm ƒ/2.8 that’s designed specifically for the Z cameras. And there’s another Z-mount version that’s a little slower, at ƒ/4; you can find sample images I’ve taken with that lens here.
Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8E Sample Photos
Here are some sample images shot with this lens across a range of different subject matters designed to test various aspects in real-world shooting. Click on the photos below for full-size versions.
Optical Correction Tools
I deliberately haven’t applied extensive corrections to these images. And the general rule of thumb in photography is that it’s better to get the shot right at the time of capture rather than trying to fix it after. That’s a great aspiration, but it’s not always possible to do if you’re bumping up against limitations or flaws in gear, conditions, or technique.
But it’s worth mentioning that there are some excellent tools available to help address common issues with lenses, such as distortion, chromatic aberration, and lens vignetting when editing the images. All-round image processing apps like Lightroom Classic and Capture One have solid tools built in already that often cater to specific lens profiles (or you can make your own).
Some more specialized tools can take it even further. DxO, in particular, sets the gold standard. Their software is built on the foundation of their incredibly deep archive of data from their extensive lab testing of the optical performance of lenses and cameras. But there are some other excellent specialized tools available. These are well worth a look (and have free trials):
- DxO Pure RAW (for a suite of automatic RAW file corrections enhancement)
- DxO ViewPoint (correcting for distortion and geometry)
- Topaz Labs Sharpen AI (in addition to standard unsharp tools, includes focus correction and shake reduction)
- On1 NoNoise (includes Tack Sharp AI, which applies sharpening)
Price & Availability of the Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm ƒ/2.8E ED VR
Check the current price and availability at:
You can rent them at BorrowLenses and LensProtoGo.
- Fast f/2.8 constant aperture with an electromagnetic diaphragm
- Sensational image quality and sharpness with virtually no distortion, Focal Length Range : 24 to 70...
Accessories for the Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8E ED VR Lens
Filters. The Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8E ED VR Lens takes standard 82mm screw-in filters: Polarizer | UV/Haze | ND.
Lens Hood. It comes with a plastic petal-style lens hood. If you need a replacement, the model number is HB-74.
Lens Caps. It takes standard Nikon front and rear lens caps. Aftermarket versions are usually cheaper and work just as well.
Lens Case. It comes with a semi-soft lens case. There’s no particular reason you have to stick to the official Nikon one, but if you’re after a replacement, the model number is CL-M3.
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Mine is a nikon 4100.not a full frame. What nikon 24-70mm lense do I use, Ed?
A Nikon Coolpix 4100? Since that’s a point and shoot that doesn’t support interchangeable lenses, I assume you mean a different model (Nikon D3100, perhaps?). Nikon DSLRs have two sensor sizes, known as FX (full-frame) and DX (cropped sensor).
So it sounds like you’re using a DX-sensor camera. The traditional choice on a DX camera would be 17-55mm ƒ/2.8G. You can use this 24-70mm on it, but the focal length will be closer (i.e., more telephoto) and be the equivalent of using a 36-105mm lens.
I have a D 810 & Nikon 24-70 mm lens and I too often end up with a soft image.
I shoot on Auto, yet I’m careful to give the camera/lens an extra second to lock in.
On occasion there is a delay of the shutter engaging , not sure why this happens.
I don’t change my setting often except for ISO and F stops. I have come a long way in the last 3 years,
but always something new to learn.
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. This is a camera/lens combination I’ve used a lot, and having such a long delay isn’t normal. There are all sorts of reasons that come to mind that might be causing it–I’ll start with the ones I’d look at first.
– Make sure battery is fully charged (it’s unlikely to be this since you’re seeing it consistently, but still doesn’t hurt to mention it).
– Clean the contacts between the lens and the camera. A standard lens wipe should do the trick, but if that doesn’t there are some more specialized sprays for cleaning electronic contacts.
– Try changing the focusing mode. On the front of the camera, find the AF/M switch. Press and hold the button in the middle of that. Then rotate the dial on the back with your right thumb between settings like AF-S, AF-C, and AF-F. You most likely have it on AF-S, from the sounds of it. There’s nothing wrong with that, but seeing if switching to AF-C resolves the delay will be a helpful step in isolating the problem. More info here.
Those are some ideas to start with. If you’re getting consistently soft images, you might need to finetune the camera/lens combination. You can find instructions for doing that here. But that probably doesn’t account for the slow responsiveness of the shutter.