Reviews and news on photography gear.
The MonsterAdapter LA-FZ1 puts a focus motor in the adapter, so Nikon's screw-drive AF and AF-D lenses autofocus on Z cameras again, which the FTZ II can't do. Here's how it handled a fisheye and a 24mm, where it falls short, and whether it's worth $359.
Contax bodies span several eras, from a 6V cell that's still made to button cells and modern lithiums. Every battery here comes from the camera's own manual, and I note which bodies still fire when the battery dies.
The Nikon Z50 II has no AF-ON button, but the AE-L/AF-L button can do the job once you change two settings, not just one. Here are the exact menu paths, what to do about exposure lock and video, and how to undo it.
The Z50 II ships on JPEG normal, but one step up to JPEG fine at Large size is the best image quality setting for many people. Here's what each option does, and the simple setup I'd start with.
If your Nikon Z50 II RAW files won't open on your computer, the cause is nearly always an outdated app or the camera's default High efficiency compression. Here's how to tell which, and how to rescue photos you've already taken.
A full factory reset on the Nikon Z50 II can't be undone, and it isn't always the right fix. Here's every reset the camera offers, what each keeps and erases, and how to back up your settings first.
The Nikon Z50 II packs several burst speeds plus a Pre-Release Capture mode that saves frames from before you even press the shutter — but it comes with real trade-offs. Here's which settings to use for action shots, and the limits (JPEG-only, battery drain, buffer caps) worth knowing first.
Picked up an old Yashica camera and want to get it working? Here are charts for Yashica SLRs, the Electro 35 family, the T-series compacts and the Yashica-Mat TLRs, plus what to do about the Electro 35’s discontinued mercury cell.
Adding grid lines to your viewfinder or back screen can be an extremely useful tool for composing your shots, helping with keeping lines level and key elements balanced in the frame. Here's how to enable them in the Nikon Z50 II and the options that are available.
I explain why further down this page, but it's always best practice to format the memory card in the camera that you're using it in. It's quick and easy; here's how to do it on the Z50 II.
Mercury button cells like the PX625 haven't been sold for 30 years, so old film camera meters need a workaround. Here are four replacement options, from cheap silver-oxide spacers to full meter recalibration, plus how to tell which one your camera actually needs.
Which battery does your Leica take? Charts for digital and film Leicas, from the M, SL, Q and S lines to the compacts, Leicaflex and R-series SLRs, all taken from Leica’s own manuals and data sheets. Plus which bodies can share spares, and the few rows that rest on weaker sources.
From mercury-cell SRTs to the AAA-powered Maxxum 7000, Minolta cameras take a surprising range of batteries. These charts, pulled from each model's own manual, sort out exactly which one fits yours.
Not all Mamiya medium-format and TLR cameras need batteries at all to shoot. Several models are mechanical-only, designed to be used with external light meters. Others require a battery for the built-in light meter. And in one case, the shutter won't fire without a battery.
Sigma's camera lineup is small enough that one battery, the BP-51, covers most recent models — the fp, fp L, and all four dp Quattro compacts. This chart lays out exactly which pack each Sigma body takes, plus which models can charge over USB.
The Nikon Zf ships without a charger, and it charges the EN-EL15c battery in the body over USB-C instead. Here's exactly what cable and power source that needs, plus the optional chargers and spare-battery options worth knowing about.
Not sure which battery your Ricoh camera actually takes? These charts match battery models to camera bodies, with notes on charger quirks and third-party alternatives worth knowing about before you buy.
Instead of reaching for recovery software, I asked an AI coding assistant to recover a camera-formatted SD card — and it got back 52 of 53 photos, verified byte-for-byte and automatically renamed into dated folders. Here's exactly how it worked, and when you'd still want the packaged tools instead.
Running old Nikon D3500 RAW files through DxO PureRAW turns out to be one of the cheapest ways to close the image-quality gap to a newer camera. Here are before/after sliders and 100% crops from ISO 100 to 25600, with the exact settings and RAW files to try yourself.
Bothered by noise from your Fujifilm X100V? Before you buy a newer body, see what AI-based RAW processing does to the RAW files. Before/after sliders and 100% crops from my own Fujifilm X100V photos show how much of a difference it makes.
The Sony a6000 is 12 years old and its high-ISO files show it. But AI-based RAW processing pulls cleaner, sharper images out of old RAW files than the camera ever could. Before/after sliders and 100% crops from my own Sony a6000 photos show how much of a difference it makes.
The Sony RX100 VII's small sensor gets noisy fast once the ISO climbs. That's exactly what AI-based RAW processing fixes best. Before/after sliders and 100% crops from my own Sony RX100 VII photos show how much of a difference it makes.
Bothered by noise from your Ricoh GR II? Before you buy a newer body, see what AI-based RAW processing does to the RAW files. Before/after sliders and 100% crops from my own Ricoh GR II photos show how much of a difference it makes.
Lumix battery names don't always make it obvious which model fits your camera, or which charger you actually need. This chart sorts out the battery families, flags the charger quirks, and covers what to know before trying a third-party cell.
Working out which battery fits your OM-System or Olympus camera isn't always as simple as it could be, because similar-looking models don't always share the same battery. These charts show which battery goes with which camera, with notes on chargers and third-party options.
Not sure which battery your Pentax camera takes, or whether that cheaper third-party pack is safe to buy? These charts match each model to its correct battery, with notes on chargers and compatible alternatives.
Not sure which battery your Fujifilm camera takes, or whether it needs a separate charger? These charts match every current model to its correct battery and charger, with notes on buying third-party alternatives.
Not sure which battery your Canon camera actually takes, or which charger comes with it? These charts match batteries and chargers to specific Canon models, with notes on third-party alternatives.
Matching the right battery to your Sony camera sounds simple until you hit the exceptions: cameras that ship with no charger at all, an a9 that charges over micro-USB, and an a1 II charger that needs a separate USB-PD source. This chart covers batteries and chargers for 39 mirrorless and SLT bodies plus the compact line.
Not sure which battery fits your Nikon camera? Even similar models like the Z9 and Z8 don't share batteries — these charts sort out exactly which model you need, plus what to know about third-party options.
Here's an old trick to save money and get better results at the same time.
After a month shooting the Fujifilm GFX100RF, I found a camera with genuinely excellent image quality but real low-light limitations that changed how I'd recommend using it.
The GFX100RF's digital teleconverter is a real composition tool thanks to its 102MP sensor — but the physical switch is easy to bump by accident. Here's what each crop costs in resolution, how RAW files handle it, and the menu setting that stops unintended crops.
A collection of real-world Fujifilm GFX100RF sample images, shot with its fixed 28mm-equivalent f/4 lens and no in-body stabilization, each with the exact exposure settings used to keep them sharp.
With no IBIS and a 102MP sensor, the Fujifilm GFX100RF's default Auto ISO minimum shutter speed isn't fast enough to guarantee sharp handheld files. Here's the three-profile setup I now use, plus a manual footnote that quietly overrides it.
I've been shooting with the Viltrox WCL-X100VI wide-angle conversion lens on my Fujifilm X100VI, and here's what I've found.
You’ve matched the channels. You’ve matched the groups. Everything looks perfect on the screen, but your flash refuses to fire. Before you blame your hot shoe or camera, check this one "invisible" setting.
Bypassing workflow friction when transferring 40MP files. Here is a practical look at the best ways to connect the Fujifilm X100VI to your computer via USB-C, wireless, or natively as a high-end webcam without extra software.
How to read your camera’s spec sheet and match it to UHS-I, UHS-II, CFexpress, and V30/V60/V90 ratings — so you buy a card that’s fast enough without paying for speed your camera can’t use.
The Nikon Z7 III hasn't launched yet, but its expected 8K RAW N-RAW output already tells us what memory cards will be needed to avoid buffer bottlenecks. Here's a pre-release forecast of CFexpress and SDXC cards to budget for, plus how to dodge the dual-slot backup trap.
The Nikon Z6 III is a hybrid monster, but its 6K RAW video and 20 fps bursts will choke standard media. This guide cuts through the marketing fluff to explain the VPG400 standard and which cards are built to handle the heat of the Z6 III's high-bitrate architecture.
None of the TG-5, TG-6 or TG-7 ship with a memory card, and Olympus's own manuals barely help. Here are tested SD card picks that keep up with 4K video and 20fps bursts, plus what size to buy.
There's still no native Nikon Z-mount fisheye, but an old discontinued F-mount lens paired with the FTZ adapter turns out to be a genuinely strong option on the Z8. Here's what you gain, what you lose, and how it stacks up against the newer third-party Z-mount fisheyes.
I've written a full technical review of the TTArtisan Tilt 50mm f/1.4 separately, but I wanted to include here a larger collection of sample images.
Tilt lenses are definitely niche, but they allow you to aggressively manipulate the focus plane to create that fun "miniature" optical illusion. The TTArtisan Tilt 50mm f/1.4 is an affordable, all-metal manual lens designed exactly for this creative purpose. I took it for a spin handheld to see if this $229 lens could deliver that eye-catching diorama look without the high price tag of traditional architectural glass.
A collection of handheld sample images from the Laowa 8-15mm f/2.8 FF Zoom Fisheye on a Nikon Z8, shot in RAW at f/2.8 and f/4 with no distortion corrections applied, showing what this manual-focus zoom fisheye actually delivers.
The Laowa 8-15mm f2.8 is a full-frame zoom fisheye lens that comes with various common lens mounts. I've been shooting with it, and here's my take.
Here are some high-resolution sample images to go along with my review of the Meike 85mm f1.4 AF Z fast prime lens.
I've been shooting with the Meike 85mm f1.4 AF Z fast prime lens. The price is certainly attractive. It's optics are very good. My biggest quibble with it is the speed and reliability of the autofocus.
The Z50 II is a video powerhouse, but its high-bitrate 4K modes will choke standard SD cards. Nikon’s manual is confusing, recommending "Speed Class 3" while actually requiring much faster speeds for top performance. This guide cuts through the jargon to tell you exactly which cards work.
The Ricoh GR IV ditches standard SD cards for the smaller microSD format and adds 53GB of internal storage. Here are my practical recommendations on which memory cards to get for it.
Here's an abbreviated set of sample images I've taken with the Ricoh GR IV.
I've been so looking forward to the Ricoh GR IV. But mine didn't last 24 hours before it died with a showstopping "lens error."
Want to turn your 200mm lens into a 280mm or 400mm monster without spending thousands on new glass? A teleconverter might be the answer. But before you buy, you need to understand the 'optical tax' involved — specifically regarding light loss and autofocus speed.
My experiences with teleconverters over the years haven't been great. But this new Nikon Z 1.4x teleconverter surprised me.
Using a manual-focus lens on a Nikon Z? Here's what a non-CPU lens actually is, and a step-by-step walkthrough of the Non-CPU Lens Data menu that sharpens IBIS, Auto ISO, and your image metadata.
I've been testing the TTArtisan 11mm f/2.8, a full-frame fisheye with manual focus and manual aperture. Here are some more sample images I've taken with it to go along with my detailed hands-on review.
Here's my hands-on review after shooting with the TTArtisan 11mm f/2.8 full-frame fisheye lens.
The AstrHori 12mm f/2.8 fisheye is a fast full-frame fisheye lens. It's an entirely analog lens with manual focus and manual aperture. I've been out shooting with it, and here's my take on it.
The Viltrox AF 28mm f/4.5 Z is a fixed-aperture full-frame lens that is absolutely tiny. It's an interesting option for street and travel photography.
The Viltrox AF 15mm f1.7 Air lens is small, light, pleasingly sharp, and certainly priced attractively. After shooting with it, here's my detailed take on it.
After years shooting the heavier AF-S 14-24mm f/2.8G, this Z-mount version became a lens I actually look forward to using. Here's a large set of real-world sample images shot on a Nikon Z8, with notes on how it compares to the AF-S original and the Z 14-30mm f/4 S.
Here's a collection of sample images I've taken with the Viltrox AF 24mm f1.8 Z to go along with my detailed hands-on review.
The Viltrox AF 24mm f1.8 Z is a competent, workmanlike wide prime lens. But factor the price in, and it becomes a very attractive lens.
After weeks of real-world shooting on a Nikon Z8, this fast, sharp ultra-wide has become one of my favorite Viltrox lenses yet. Here's my hands-on take on the Viltrox 16mm f/1.8 AF Z, including sample images and how it stacks up against pricier alternatives.
The Viltrox 16mm f1.8 AF Z manages to be good, cost-effective, and fun to shoot with, which is a great combination. I've been out putting it to the test on my Nikon Z8, and here are some sample images to give a sense of how it performs in real-world shooting conditions.
There are Viltrox lenses that I like. And I especially like a fast 50mm prime. So why wouldn't I recommend this one?
The Laowa 10mm f2.8 is wide, relatively fast, and has autofocus. It's also full-frame and, importantly, has very effective aspherical elements to keep things straight. I've been shooting with it. Here's my take.
I've been out shooting with the ultra-wide Laowa 10mm f/2.8 autofocus lens (full-frame). Here's a selection of high-resolution sample files I've taken with it.
There's a surprisingly large range of options available if you're looking for Nikon Z DX mirrorless lenses. Here's my running list of the alternatives from Nikon and third-party manufacturers.
At $176, the Viltrox AF 25mm f/1.7 Z undercuts Nikon's own DX primes by hundreds of dollars — but is the autofocus and optical quality good enough to matter? Here's what real-world shooting with it on a Nikon Z8 revealed, from sharpness wide open to vignetting and AF speed.
A look at real photos taken with the Viltrox AF 25mm f1.7 Z, an inexpensive APS-C prime for Nikon's Z-mount, shot mostly wide open to see what this $176 lens can really do.
There's a surprisingly large range of options available if you're looking for Nikon Z full-frame lenses. Here's my running list of the alternatives from Nikon and third-party manufacturers.
180mm is already telephoto territory, but this lens reaches all the way to 600mm on full-frame. Here are uncropped, real-world Nikon Z8 examples across the zoom range so you can see what that reach actually looks like.
Formatting a new SD card in the X100VI takes seconds once you know where to look — here's the menu path, a hidden 2-button shortcut, and what a 'Card Error' message usually means.
The Kirk TT-1 is an unusually solid table-top tripod rated for loads up to 100 pounds but is small and lightweight, easily fitting in a camera bag's pocket.
The Manfrotto Power Cube offers a few features that most camera battery chargers don't have. Here's my take after using it.
The Fujifilm X100VI is a beautiful camera, but it's essentially a rectangular brick to hold. Thumb grips are a popular fix, but after testing the SmallRig version, I found the trade-offs — specifically regarding back-button focus and button access — might outweigh the benefits.
The Fujifilm X100VI's Boost mode speeds up autofocus, EVF refresh, and low-light visibility, but at a real battery cost. Here's what each of its three settings does and when to use them.
Looking for "metering" on your Fujifilm X100VI and coming up empty? Fujifilm calls it Photometry instead — here's exactly where to find it, what Multi, Spot, Center-Weighted and Average do, and how to assign it to a button or the Quick Menu.
A year of real shooting with the Nikkor Z MC 105mm f/2.8 VR S on a Nikon Z8, from macro close-ups to cherry blossoms at the Tidal Basin. Here's a look at the sample images and why its flat-field macro design makes it an unusually capable everyday telephoto.
A Nikon Z8 that suddenly refuses to autofocus is usually not broken — it's a small, easy-to-bump button hiding in plain sight. Here's the exact fix, plus what to check if the menu setting is greyed out.
The Fujifilm X100VI's default viewfinder text is small and low-contrast, easy to misread in bright light. Here's how to switch on Large Indicators Mode and customize which readouts appear where.
If your Fujifilm X100VI's viewfinder lever suddenly stops switching to optical mode, you haven't broken anything. One specific setting, the 3D Electronic Level, silently disables the OVF, and this is exactly where to find and fix it.
If you're considering moving from DSLR to mirrorless, these are some things to consider. This isn't about what's better or worse but about things that are different enough to potentially influence how you shoot in some way.
Fujifilm pushes its smartphone app for firmware updates, but the old-school SD card method is faster and more reliable. Here's the exact file name, menu steps, and precautions to get the X100VI updated without a hitch.
The X100VI's aperture ring is easy to fumble on its slim lens barrel. Here's the 3-step menu setup that moves aperture control to the front command dial instead, plus the trade-off it creates.
The AEL/AFL button is the key to real back-button focus on the Fujifilm X100VI, but the menu setup isn't obvious. Here's the exact steps, plus a hybrid trick for switching back to normal autofocus.
The "Q" button gives you instant access to 16 camera settings, but did you know you can completely redesign it? Whether you want to swap Film Simulations for Self-Timers or just reduce the clutter, here is the undocumented shortcut to customizing the Quick Menu.
The X100VI's fixed lens has no true zoom, but a Digital Teleconverter can simulate 50mm and 70mm crops via the control ring. Here's how that feature actually works, and why it often engages by accident, cropping your shot without warning.
The Fujifilm X100VI's digital teleconverter simulates 50mm and 70mm, but it's a crop, not a zoom — resolution drops from 40MP to 20MP and 10MP. Here's what it actually does, real sample images, and whether it's worth using.
The X100VI has a secret shortcut to reassign your buttons on the fly. Instead of navigating deep into the "Setup" menu, you can access the full button customization screen with a single long-press. Here is how.
The X100VI's top dial only gives you +/-3 stops of exposure compensation — but a lesser-known setting using the command dials extends that to +/-5 stops in each direction. Here's exactly where to find both controls and how to set them up.
The Fujifilm X100VI's base ISO is 125, with a native range up to 12,800 and extension down to 64 and up to 51,200 — but numbers alone don't show you image quality. These real-world sample sets, with downloadable RAW and JPEG files, let you judge the noise and highlight clipping for yourself.
The Fujifilm X100VI ships with its Wi-Fi set to 2.4GHz by default, which makes downloading photos and video to the XApp needlessly slow. Switching one setting to 5GHz gives a major speed boost on nearly any modern smartphone — here's exactly where to find it and what to watch out for.
Neither the X100VI nor the X100V ships with a card, and Fujifilm's official list points you toward expensive UHS-II cards the camera's UHS-I slot can't fully use. Here's exactly what card size and speed actually matter, and where you can save real money.
Here are some practical examples of the zoom range of the Sony E 10-20mm f/4 PZ G wide-angle zoom lens to give a visual sense of how the focal lengths translate into real-world shooting.
After weeks shooting the Sony a6700, here's an honest look at its handling, menus, viewfinder, and image quality — with a focus on stills rather than its well-known video chops.
I've been shooting with these two fast wide-angle primes for Sony E-mount. Here's my take on how they compare.
If you'd like to get a visual sense of the image quality out of the Nikon D850 at high ISOs, here's a selection of high-resolution images I've taken with it.
As firmware becomes more and more important to how cameras work, we might see a shift in the very nature of our cameras, how we interact with them, and how they work.
Here's a full set of Sony a6700 sample photos, shot in RAW and lightly processed in Lightroom Classic, meant to sit alongside a separate hands-on review. Click any image to see the full-size version and judge the image quality yourself.
See how the Sony a6700 actually handles high ISO, with real-world sample photos from ISO 3200 up to 102400, plus downloadable JPG and RAW files so you can judge the image quality yourself.
This is my hands-on review of the Sigma 16mm f/1.4 DC DN lens, which I've been using on a Sony a6700.
Here's a selection of images I've taken using the Sigma 16mm f/1.4 DC DN prime lens on a Sony a6700.
Here's my hands-on review of the Sony E 15mm f/1.4 G prime lens for Sony APS-C Alpha cameras.
Here are some sample images I've taken with the Sony E 15mm f/1.4 G lens on a Sony a6700. It's a fast prime designed for Sony's cropped-sensor APS-C cameras in the Alpha range.
The Sony a6700 has a micro HDMI (Type D) port for video output, plus a separate USB-C port for charging and data. Here's how to tell them apart and which cable to get for each.
The Sony a6700's manual focus ring does nothing until you enable it — Sony buries this under the name Full Time DMF rather than anything obvious. Here's exactly where to find the setting and which lenses and shooting modes it won't work with.
The Sony a6700's mechanical shutter is surprisingly loud, but switching to Silent Mode brings trade-offs beyond noise, including rolling shutter risk, no flash at all, and disabled features. Here's how to set it up and what to watch for.
I've used a lot of different cameras in shooting black and white over the years, but I've found the Nikon Z8 surprisingly fun and well suited to it.
The Sony a6700's framing grid is switched off by default and buried a couple of menu levels deep. Here's exactly where to find it, how to turn it on, and which grid styles are worth choosing.
Most cameras only perform a "quick format," which leaves your images recoverably intact. Whether you are protecting sensitive client data or trying to revive a glitchy card, sometimes you need a true secure wipe. Here is how to do it properly on a Mac — using tools you likely already have — without risking damage to the card.
The Sony a6700's AF-ON button is set up to work alongside the shutter button for autofocus by default — not ideal for back-button focus. Here's exactly which menu setting to change to separate them.
The a6700's format option isn't where you'd expect — it's tucked in the Shooting menu, not Setup. Here's exactly where to find it, plus when to use quick format versus the less obvious full format.
The Sony a6700 defaults to capping Auto ISO at 6400, well short of its 32,000 native and 102,400 extended range. Here's how base, native, and max ISO break down, and how to raise that ceiling yourself.
UHS-I and UHS-II SD cards have been used in cameras now for several years. And you might have started seeing mentions of UHS-III. So what is it, and should you buy one?
The Z8 has no mechanical shutter, making it dead silent. But if you miss the feedback of a "clack," you can add it back digitally. Here is how to customize the artificial shutter sound.
If you've ever shopped for a lens and seen the phrase "35mm equivalent," you know photography jargon can be confusing. This term is the key to understanding how different cameras see the world. Here is exactly what it means and how to use it to choose the right lens.
The Nikon Z8's two card slots can do more than just store photos — set them to overflow, mirror as a backup, or split RAW and JPEG copies automatically.
The Nikon Zf pairs a full-size SD slot with a smaller microSD slot, and how you configure them affects more than storage. Here's how to set overflow, backup, and RAW/JPEG splits properly, plus a backup-mode setting that can silently stop 4K60p video recording.
Like other newer Nikon cameras, the Nikon Zf has a built-in battery check feature. This isn't so much about showing how much charge is left in the battery (although it does that). More interestingly, it can tell you when the battery has reached the end of its working life and is ready to be put out to pasture.
Unlike many other recent Nikon cameras, the Nikon Zf has only one method for formatting the memory cards. Here's how to do it.
My aim in this post is to walk through how to adjust the control ring settings, explore the default settings, and dive into the various options available so you can set it up for your own style of shooting.
I shot the Nikon AF-S and Z 105mm f/2.8 macro lenses side-by-side on my Z8 to settle a practical question: is the Z version's price worth ditching a lens I already own and use constantly.
Every time I turned my Z8 on, my exposure was off by a stop. I thought I had "Auto Reset" enabled, but I missed one critical detail about how the lens control ring behaves. Here is the fix.
One of the most common questions for Nikon shooters is whether the new, high-performance Z-mount mirrorless lenses can be used on older DSLRs. Here is the short answer, the technical "why," and how to manage your lens collection if you use both systems.
A collection of real-world Nikon Zf sample images, shot in RAW across the mixed and variable lighting typical of street and travel photography, then lightly processed to show the camera's true output.
When you check your Nikon's menu, you might see a confusing list of letters like C, LF, MA, or S. Here is exactly what those codes mean — and why updating your camera body might not be enough.
The Nikon Zf's native ISO runs from 100 to 64,000 — but what does that look like on an actual sensor? Here are unedited, straight-out-of-camera RAW and JPG samples across that range, with downloadable files for your own side-by-side comparisons.
Straight-out-of-camera Nikon Zf images from ISO 3200 up to 64,000, shot side by side so you can judge for yourself where the noise becomes a problem — with the native ISO range and full RAW files included.
Lithium batteries degrade over time, but you don't have to guess when to replace them. Your Nikon Z8 has a built-in health checker hidden in the menu. Here is how to find it.
Digital memory cards are tough little things, but it's still possible to wear them out. And now that we decades into the age of digital photography, and the data demands of modern shooting types is so high, that's potentially more of an issue. Here's an explanation of the problem and some sensible precautions to take.
The Nikon Zf has excellent composition tools, but they are turned off out of the box. From the classic Rule of Thirds to the new vertical video guides added in Firmware v3.00, here is the two-step process to get them on your screen.
Unlike the Z8, the Nikon Zf exposes its sensor every time you change a lens. Here is how to ensure the ultrasonic cleaning cycle runs automatically to try to keep those pesky dust bunnies from spoiling your shots.
The new v3.00 firmware adds Film Grain and Bird Detection to your Zf, but you have to install it manually. Here is the step-by-step guide to updating without bricking your camera or losing your settings.
Changed a Nikon Zf setting and can't remember the original value? Here's every menu's default for Firmware v3.01, plus the new menu items v3.00 added, so you can roll back just what you need.
The Nikon Z 40mm f/2 is probably the closest thing to a nifty fifty in Nikon's current Z lens lineup. Here are some photos I've taken with it to go alongside my hands-on review.
I've been out shooting with the small, compact Nikon Z 26mm f/2.8 lens. Here are some photos I've taken with it.
The Nikon Z 28mm f/2.8 is small, light, and very reasonably priced. Here are some photos I've taken with it.
The Nikon Zf isn't just for single frames. With its compact size and excellent stabilization, it is a surprisingly capable tool for shooting high-resolution panoramas on the go. Here is the setup I use to capture them without a tripod.
Here's my hands-on review of the Nikon Z 28mm f/2.8, a small, light, and cheap prime lens for Nikon Z-mount mirrorless cameras.
I've been out shooting with the Nikon Z 40mm f/2 prime lens. It's a small, light, and relatively fast prime that is a great option for candids, street, and travel photography. Here's my take on it.
Back-button focus is one of the most useful ways to configure a camera, allowing you to lock focus and reframe without the camera hunting every time you press the shutter. But because of its minimalist, retro design, the Nikon Zf is missing a dedicated AF-ON button. Fortunately, getting this functionality back is just a quick two-step menu tweak. Here is exactly how to repurpose the Zf's AE-L/AF-L button for focus, and how to configure an alternative button so you don't lose the ability to lock your exposure.
This 26mm pancake lens is the smallest lens in Nikon's Z lineup. And yet I'm very impressed with its performance, both in handling and in image quality. It has quickly earned a regular place attached to my camera.
The Nikon Zf pairs a fast UHS-II SD slot with a slower UHS-I microSD slot, a mismatch that can quietly cripple your buffer or video recording if you pick the wrong cards. Here are the best cards for each slot and how to avoid the Backup Mode bottleneck.
The Sony a7C II demands a fast UHS-II card, and picking wrong means dropped frames or a locked-up buffer mid-shoot. Here's exactly which V90 and V60 SD cards handle this camera's single card slot, 33MP bursts, and 600 Mbps 4K video without choking.
The Manfrotto 190go! M-Series Carbon Fiber Travel Tripod is a 4-section tripod that's rated for a load capacity of about 15 pounds, stands up to 58 inches tall, and weights under 3 pounds. Here's my hands-on review.
The Sony a7R V takes both CFexpress Type A and SDXC UHS-II cards in identical-looking slots, but their performance isn't equal — here's which to pick, when to use both, and the best cards for the job.
The Nikon Z7 II's two card slots use completely different technologies, and pairing them wrong throttles your 10 fps burst to a crawl. Here's how to match CFexpress and SDXC speeds correctly, and when buying a newer CFexpress 4.0 card actually saves you money.
The Sony a6700 has a single UHS-II slot, and picking the wrong card grays out its best video modes entirely. Here's which V90 and V60 SD cards actually unlock 4K120 and All-Intra recording, based on independent speed testing.
Deciphering the alphabet soup of memory card formats can be frustrating. Whether you are shooting basic JPEG photos or heavy 8K video, here is exactly what you need to know about the capacity limits, file systems, and camera compatibility of SD, SDHC, SDXC, and the new SDUC formats.
It's not easy to know which is the best SD card for the Fujifilm X-S20. There are a lot of confusing codes and marketing hype to cut through. So here are my practical recommendations on good choices for your X-S20.
A running list of Nikon lens hood model numbers matched to specific NIKKOR lenses, covering F-mount FX and DX lenses, older manual-focus glass, and Z-mount mirrorless lenses, plus what the HB, HN, HR, and HK codes actually mean.
By default, your Z8 refocuses every time you touch the shutter. That isn't always what you want. Here is how to separate focus from the shutter release — and the hidden menu setting that unlocks Trap Focus.
If you're after a replacement or spare lens hood for your Sony lens, here are the part numbers to look for. Updated with the latest Sony lenses.
Canon's manual barely explains which SD cards actually suit the R10. After testing numerous cards, here are specific recommendations plus the compatibility rules (SDXC, UHS-II, V60/V90) behind them.
Laowa lenss use various codes in their names to denote compatibility or particular features. Here's how to make sense of them.
A quick format only clears the file index — your photos are still on the card until overwritten. A full format wipes them for good and maps out bad sectors. Here's which to use, and when.
Sharp, smooth, and reasonably priced, the Nikon NIKKOR Z 35mm f/1.8 S is a highly versatile and useful lens in Nikon's expanding lineup of Z-mount primes.
If you've been changing settings on your Ricoh GR III and want to restore the default settings, or maybe you're lending the camera to someone, here's how to reset the settings.
If you're shooting with a Ricoh GR III and wanting to get video output directly from he camera, here's how to do it.
I've tested various aftermarket EN-EL15C replacement batteries for the Nikon Z8, but had trouble finding a compatible option. However, this one not only works but also offers an additional useful feature.
A look at how the Fujifilm XF 8-16mm f/2.8 R LM WR performs in real shooting, with rectilinear optics that keep straight lines straight and no fisheye bulge at ultra-wide angles. These RAW, lightly processed shots from an X-T5 complement the full hands-on review of this lens.
A gallery of real-world sample images shot with the Nikon NIKKOR Z 14-30mm f/4 S on a Nikon Z8, meant as a companion to my full hands-on review of the lens. All shots were taken in RAW with default in-camera corrections applied, so you can see exactly what this smaller, filter-friendly alternative…
The Nikon Z 50mm f/1.2 S is fast, heavy, and pricey. But it's also optically excellent. Here are some photos I've taken with it.
A prime lens has no zoom, just a fixed focal length like 50mm or 85mm. That simplicity often means faster apertures and sharper images, here's why that matters and which prime lenses are worth trying.
The Nikon Z8 is an absolute powerhouse, but the earliest batches were hit with two major service recalls regarding the lens mount and strap eyelets. Whether you bought yours on launch day or you're looking at buying a used body, here's exactly how to check your serial number to see if your camera needs a free trip to Nikon's repair facility.
The Oben BC-166 heavy-duty ballhead doesn't try to do fancy. It aims for no-fuss, rock-solid support and easy adjustment. And it succeeds well.
If you've changed the settings on your Ricoh GR III and can't remember what you've changed, this master list of default settings on the Ricoh GR III can help with changing individual settings back to their defaults.
Oben's VH-R2 Tilt Head for monopods is a solidly built tilt head that can handle the weight of most telephoto lenses. Here's my hands-on review.
Travel tripods are great for saving weight, but sometimes you just need a big, tall rig to hold a heavy super-telephoto lens steady in the wind. I took the Oben CT-2391 3-section carbon fiber tripod into the field to see if it offers the perfect balance of heavy-duty stability and lightweight portability.
The Sony RX0 is compatible with just about any grip that folds out to a table-top tripod. But Sony makes one that adds a built in shutter release.
Since Nik Collection 7, your custom recipes live in a single database file, not the old UserPresets folders. Where it lives, how to back it up, and how to get recipes back when they go missing — plus rescuing recipes from the old Google version.
Here's a master list of the aspect ratios for still images available on the OM System OM-5 camera.
I've been testing the OM System M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-45mm f/4 Pro zoom lens for OM System and Olympus Micro Four Thirds cameras. Here are some quick practical examples of its zoom range to provide a visual idea of its perspective.
Get to grips with fast lenses--what they are, how they work and why they're so popular among photographers. Learn what defines a fast lens, the benefits of shooting with one, and good lenses to start with. Plus, discover some lens gotchas to watch out for.
If you've ever looked at a lens barrel and wondered why it lists an aperture range instead of a single f-stop, you are looking at a variable aperture zoom. It is a deliberate engineering compromise to keep glass portable and affordable. Here is a breakdown of the optical math behind that sliding scale, plus a look at the hidden "effective aperture" quirk that happens when shooting 1:1 macro.
Sony uses a specific set of codes to distinguish its lenses, from the entry-level "E" series to the top-tier "G Master" glass. As a relative newcomer compared to Canon or Nikon, Sony's list is shorter, but the rapid evolution of their autofocus motors (from SSM to XD) can still be confusing. Here is the complete breakdown.
Pentax users pride themselves on backward compatibility — you can mount a 1975 lens on a 2024 camera. But the alphabet soup of lens codes (DA, FA, PLM, DC) tells a different story. Some new lenses won't work on old bodies, and some old lenses need special settings to work on new bodies. Here's a breakdown of the Pentax code language.
Rokinon lenses offer incredible bang-for-your-buck, but their naming convention is a confusing soup of "Cine DSX," "AS," and "UMC." Are Rokinon and Samyang really the same thing? Does the V-AF line actually have autofocus for video? We break down every cryptic code on the barrel to help you buy the right glass for your Sony, Canon, or Nikon camera — including the modular Remaster Slim system.
Formatting your SD cards is an essential step to keeping them healthy and the data on them safe. Want to make sure you format SD cards on your Mac the right way? Here's a step-by-step guide for formatting both SD and microSD cards on Mac using two free tools to make sure that the card is ready for use in your camera or device.
The Sony FE 12-24mm F4 G zoom lens has an ultra-wide perspective that adds a lot of drama and packs a lot of scene into the frame, but it manages to do it without the distracting parts that you often get at such extreme focal lengths.
Formatting your SD card directly in the Olympus OM-1 keeps its filesystem exactly how the camera expects — here's where to find the menu option and what the OM-1's format actually does (and doesn't) erase.
There is nothing more frustrating than shooting a beautiful multi-frame landscape, only to get home and find dark, blotchy bands ruining the sky when you try to stitch it together. If you shoot panoramas, you've likely run into this issue. Here is a practical look at exactly why circular polarizers and stitched panoramas don't mix well, along with a few examples from my archive and the workarounds I rely on instead.
If you're using a battery grip on the Nikon D850, D810, or D800, here's how to see the charge status of both batteries.
Pulled a Fujifilm X-T5 out of the box only to find the viewfinder hopelessly blurry? The fix is simple once you know it: the diopter dial has to be pulled out before it will turn. Here's exactly how it works, plus what a viewfinder diopter actually does.
The Varavon Baby T3 Mini Tripod is short, but that small stature comes with its virtues as a travel tripod.
A newer, faster version of SD and microSD cards is on the way. They look like existing SD and microSD cards, although they're a lot faster. It might sound like you're getting a faster, better card, but you're almost certainly not (at least, not yet).
SD cards have a bunch of cryptic codes on them. The most important when choosing an SD card for your camera is the Video Speed Class. Here's what it means.
Getting an "unsupported format" error opening Z8 NEF files on a Mac? Apple only added native support for Lossless Compressed RAWs — not High Efficiency (HE or HE*) — and here's how to work around it for free.
Do you find that your Ricoh GR III's back screen turns off too quickly? That's a power-saving feature, but it's one you can adjust to make it stay on longer. Here's how.
As discreet as the Ricoh GR III is out of the box, you can make it even more so. You can make it quiet. You can also turn out the lights (well, mostly). Here's how.
The Canon EOS R100 doesn't come with a memory card as standard. But you're going to need one before you start shooting. Here are my practical recommendations on which cards to get.
The Nikon Z8 takes the EN-EL15C battery, but not every charger or aftermarket cell works with it. After testing multiple batteries, chargers, and USB-C power sources, here's what actually charges the Z8 and what to avoid.
Most memory card readers are boring, utilitarian tools. But the PGYTech Createmate adds a clever twist by combining a high-speed UHS-II reader with a rugged, weather-resistant storage case for your SD and microSD cards. Here is my hands-on review of this clever travel essential.
Here are some practical recommendations on which SD cards will work well in the Nikon Z30.
Before threaded screw-on filters, lenses used a three-piece slip-on system sized by "series" number. Here's how Series 7, 8 and 9 filters actually attach, and why you'll still meet the term on vintage manual-focus lenses.
Here are the part numbers for the lens hoods for common Fujifilm/Fujinon lenses, including X series and GFX series lenses. Updated with the latest Fujifilm lenses.
It's not easy to know which is the right type of SD card for your camera. There are a lot of confusing codes and marketing hype to cut through. So here are my practical recommendations on good choices for the Fujifilm X-S10.
My name is David Coleman, and this is my site. I take photos for a living. Seven continents. Dozens of countries. Up mountains. Underwater. And a bunch of places in between. I'm based in Washington, D.C.
This site is where I post practical photography help, tips, and troubleshooting.
All posts and reviews on this site are written by me. And I only review gear with which I have personal hands-on experience. By a photographer, for photographers. More about me.
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