When you see the Kodak name on consumer electronics today, it’s usually the result of a licensing deal rather than in-house engineering. That is exactly the case with their current lineup of consumer film scanners, which are aimed directly at people trying to digitize old boxes of slides and negatives without spending a fortune or learning complex software.
Eastman Kodak shifted away from manufacturing its own consumer electronics hardware years ago, pivoting to rely heavily on brand licensing agreements.1
I’ve been testing out the smallest, cheapest, and simplest option in their lineup: the KODAK Mini Digital Film & Slide Scanner.
My goal was to see if a bare-bones device like this is actually a practical tool for a casual weekend archiving project.
As you’d guess from the name, this is a very compact and lightweight scanner. On the front is a small color screen for live previews. The control buttons sit on top, and the film passes through a slot on one side and out the other. It is a very basic device, but that straightforward simplicity is arguably its main selling point.

A Standalone Workflow. The most important thing to understand about this scanner is that it’s completely self-contained.
I don’t plug it into my Mac and run scanning software. Instead, everything is controlled directly via the device’s buttons. The files can be saved to the scanner’s internal memory (a tiny 128MB) or to an SD card. From there, you just transfer the JPEGs to your computer exactly as you would from a digital camera’s memory card. The obvious advantage here is convenience — you don’t even need a computer on the same desk to use it. The major trade-off is that you completely lose the granular control, raw output, and advanced processing options found in higher-end desktop scanners.
Film types
In my tests, I focused strictly on standard 35mm film2. However, the scanner also supports 126, 110, and Super 8 film (for scanning individual still frames, not video). It ships with physical plastic trays for 35mm, 110 negatives, 110 slides, and Super 8.


How it works in practice
Power. The unit is powered over a mini-USB cable. It includes an AC wall adapter, but because it draws so little power, I was actually able to run it off a standard USB power bank sitting on my coffee table. Technically, you could take this thing completely off-grid to scan film, though I’m hard-pressed to think of a realistic scenario where you’d actually need to do that.
Data Storage (and a hardware glitch). Because it’s standalone, saving your scans directly to an SD card is the intended workflow. The built-in 128MB of storage only holds a handful of images (each high-res JPEG is roughly 2-3MB), so it fills up almost instantly.
In practice, however, I ran into a major frustration here. The SD card slot on my unit was unusually tight, making it physically difficult to eject cards. Worse, I could not get the scanner to actually write to any SD card I tried.3 Had I bought this unit myself, it would have gone straight back for an exchange. For the sake of finishing my testing, I gritted my teeth and just used the scanner’s tiny internal memory, constantly offloading batches to my laptop via USB.
Software & Controls. There is no software to install; the scanner just spits out baked JPEGs. Your exposure control is extremely rudimentary. It defaults to an Automatic exposure, but you can bump the brightness up or down by two stops using the physical buttons. There is no custom white balance, contrast control, or curve adjustment. Any serious color correction has to be done later in an app like Lightroom or Photoshop.

Scanning results
I ran a variety of common film types through the Kodak Mini to see what it could extract. I pulled some old Kodachrome and standard slides from the 1960s and 70s, along with typical color and black-and-white negatives. These are typical “attic finds” — they have dust, scratches, fading, and color shifts. I’m deliberately using the exact same set of physical negatives I use in my other scanner reviews to keep the baseline consistent.

You can click the thumbnails below to view the full-resolution output. I have not applied any post-processing corrections to these files. Obviously, the results are heavily dependent on the quality of the original exposure, but these files are straight out of the scanner hardware, dust and all.
Color slides (positive transparencies)

Color negatives

Black & white negatives

In use, the actual scanning process is incredibly quick. In fact, its straightforward operation is probably its best feature. Unlike flatbed scanners with complicated software masks, you just slot your film into the physical plastic tray, slide it through the machine, check the live preview screen, and hit the camera button. It takes maybe a second to write the file, and you push the next frame into view.
Specs
Interface: USB 2.0
Image Sensor / Resolution: 14.0 megapixels (4416×3312) natively. It uses software interpolation to stretch that resolution to 22 megapixels.
Compatibility:
– 135 film
– 126 film
– 110 film
– Super 8 film
– Black-and-white
– Color
– Positive (slides) and negative film
Image File Output: JPEG only
Pros & cons
Pros
- Highly affordable
- Takes up very little desk space
- Dead simple to operate
- Standalone workflow requires no computer or software installation
Cons
- Lacks raw output or advanced tonal controls
- Baked JPEG output only
- No hardware dust/scratch removal (like Digital ICE)
- SD card reader issues (on my test unit, at least)
Wrap up
This is a quick, simple, and inexpensive archiving tool. If you have thousands of frames to digitize and demand high-resolution raw files for professional prints, this is absolutely not the tool for the job. You’ll quickly grow frustrated with the lack of bulk scanning features and precise exposure controls.
However, if your goal is simply to reclaim a shoebox full of old family memories to share on social media or group chats, it’s a very practical choice. For casual archiving projects where you only need to cherry-pick a few dozen frames here and there, the Kodak Mini gets the job done cheaply and easily.
Price & availability
You can usually find the scanner available at B&H Photo and Amazon with an MSRP of $130.
Notes & References:
- The current consumer scanners bearing the Kodak name — including the Mini, the Scanza, and the Slide N Scan — are actually manufactured and distributed by a third-party company called C+A Global (C&A Marketing, Inc.). C+A Global is an authorized brand licensee of the Eastman Kodak Company, manufacturing and distributing their consumer digital film scanners, instant print cameras, and mobile projectors. [↩︎]
- 35mm film includes positive transparencies (slides), as well as black-and-white or color negatives. It’s also officially known as 135 format film [↩︎]
- I tested 16GB, 32GB, 64GB, and 128GB SDHC/SDXC cards from SanDisk, Lexar, and PNY. In every instance, the scanner reported a successful format, but images simply wouldn’t save. Upon rebooting, the device would throw a “No Card” error. I tried different power sources and cables to rule out voltage drops. While I have to assume this was a defect with my specific borrowed unit, it’s worth noting as a potential quality-control red flag. [↩︎]




I bought this Kodak scanner and after several attempts managed to view slides, slow and quite frankly not worth the money, I am in my late 70’s wanted to save treasured pic’s for family. I need something that connects to computer and easy to manage.
I filled the internal memory, downloaded the images to the computer. How do I empty the internal memory so that I can scan some more slides?
When you connect it to your computer, you can treat it as an external drive. So you can copy files from it and delete them through your computer’s file manager (eg. Finder on Mac or Explorer on Windows).
How do I move the device memory saved images to my computer or to an SD card. I mistakenly saved some slide images to the device memory by forgetting to insert the SD card as captured and saved. Now I want to move them and cannot figure out how to do it.
You can plug the scanner into your computer via USB cable. It should then show up as an external drive on your computer, and you can just copy the files across.
When I try to do this, the scanner will not turn on or it will turn on for a quick second say no card and shut back off
That sounds like it might not be getting enough power over the computer’s USB connection. It might be worth trying a different USB port on your computer. Or, if you’re using a laptop, have the laptop powered by AC rather than its battery.