Digital memory cards are tough little things. They can put up with a lot more than most cameras. They can breeze through airport security x-rays without a hitch, don’t mind being dropped, are immune to magnets, can often emerge unscathed by an accidental run through a washing machine, and, if you’re really lucky, can even last for a good stint submerged in sea water.. SanDisk is even going to so far as to officially claim on the packaging of its new Extreme SDHC cards that they are waterproof, temperature proof, shock proof, x-ray proof, and magnet proof.
While all current model memory cards boast flash memory, the physical design of Secure Digital (SD) and microSD cards make them a bit more resilient than most Compact Flash (CF) cards: they’re smaller, lighter, and able to handle dust and sand better than Compact Flash (CF) cards (CF cards have 50 small holes on one face that the pins in your camera or card reader go in, which offer perfect hiding places for dust and sand). The standard models are resilient on their own, but you can also get extra tough models that are built for the rigors of more writing cycles (such as for use in security cameras or dashcams).
But all flash memory cards can wear out, at least in theory. In practice, it takes an awful lot of use and isn’t a practical concern for the vast majority of photographers. A figure of 100,000 write cycles used to be bandied about as a standard measure of what’s known as Mean Time Before Failure (MTBF), but more modern cards measure their failure rates in millions of hours of continuous use. Card manufacturers build into the card controller features that help with distributing the write cycles evenly across the card so that no one spot gets much more use than any other, a process known as wear leveling. But the very fact that wear leveling is built in is a good indicator that there is some wear.
In practice, wearing out a memory card isn’t a practical concern in most cases. A card manufactured in the past couple of years is likely to take normal usage conditions in its stride. And for abnormally demanding uses, industrial grade cards are available that are manufactured to higher standards. That said, working pros will typically replace their cards fairly regularly. The relatively modest cost of most standard-sized memory cards is a small price to minimize the risk of losing images for a client.
Unfortunately, though, as low as the risk of wearing out a card is, if the card’s going to go it will probably go suddenly without warning. So it’s a good idea to build sensible precautions into your workflow to minimize the risks of losing large numbers of images if something does happen to go wrong somewhere along the line. That means having backup cards on hand, downloading your images regularly, and formatting the cards in camera after downloading the images. There’s no hard-and-fast rule on how often you should replace your memory cards; it’s something to start thinking about when you’re getting up into the millions of images on a card (or hundreds of thousands if your card is an older model). Of course, if you’ve shot that many images, chances are you also have to start worrying about failure of the shutter mechanism in your DSLR. But that’s another story . . .
If you’re technically inclined, here’s a 2003 SanDisk paper on wear leveling in flash memory cards.
And KEH has put together a great primer on memory cards, including common error codes.
Tips for Using and Caring for Your Memory Cards
Like just about any product, especially an electronic one, it is possible for a brand new memory card to be faulty. So always check that it’s working normally before you head off on that once-in-a-lifetime trip. And always take at least one or two spare cards with you.
Always format the card in camera rather than on your computer. While the latter might well work, camera and card manufacturers usually recommend doing it in camera to avoid data errors. It’s the safer option.
Always download the images to your computer as soon as practicable and edit and archive from there. Trying to edit images directly on the memory card can lead to problems, and flash memory cards are not designed for long-term archival storage. Treat them as a temporary step between your camera and your fully backed-up image archive.
Take a spare. Or two.
Replace the cards on a schedule that makes sense for the type of shooting you’re doing. If you only take occasional snapshots, every couple of years might be fine. If you’re working pro taking hundreds or thousands of shots day in day out, much more often is a better idea.
Protect your memory cards while in the field. Here are some ideas.
Ricoh GR III Accessories & Replacement Parts
Here are the model numbers of some of the core accessories and replacement parts for the Ricoh GR III.
- Ring Cap: GN-1
The ring cap is the small plastic ring that attaches around the lens. Chances are, it's fallen off. While you do have to remove it to attach the lens adapter, it's a poor design that tends to fall off and get lost far too often. I've lost a couple of them now.
The camera will work just fine without it. But that will leave some contacts exposed around the lens barrel, which isn't ideal.
The official replacement part is overpriced. But you can also pick up much less expensive aftermarket versions. They're also available in different colors, so you can bling up your camera with a personal touch--or make it look like the Street Edition.
- 【Compatibility】: Designed for Ricoh GRIII (only).This decoration ring is made of high quality...
- 【Easy to use & Protector】:Easy installation and removal and Protects lens barrel exterior.
The GR III has a USB Type-C connector port. When you get a cable, you can get them with another USB Type-C connector on the other end or a more traditional USB Type-A connector. Which you choose depends entirely on what you're plugging into. For example, some newer laptops only have USB-C, while most other computers have USB-A.
- The Anker Advantage: Join the 50 million+ powered by our leading technology.
- Enhanced Durability: Improved construction techniques and materials make a cable that lasts 12× longer.
Battery & Charger
- Battery: DB-110
It's a rechargeable lithium-ion battery rated at 3.6V 1350mAh 4.9Wh.
There are some other cameras that also use the same battery--notably, some Olympus cameras (the Olympus model number for the same battery is LI-90B). So they're quite widely available. You can get the official Ricoh version. There are also aftermarket versions that can be much better value but work just as well.
- This Wasabi Power kit includes 2 batteries and 1 charger for the Ricoh DB-110
- Each Wasabi Power battery features Premium Grade A cells, 3.7V, 1300mAh
- Charger: BJ-11
You can charge the battery in the camera (using a USB-C cable). There are also external battery chargers available. They're especially useful if you're using spare batteries, so you can charge and shoot simultaneously.
- AC Adapter: K-AC166
This is used to power the camera for longer shoots, such as time-lapse, or if you happen to be using the camera for live streaming as a webcam. It connects via the camera's USB-C port.
Wide-Angle Conversion Lens
- Wide-Angle Lens: GW-4
- Lens Adapter: GA-1
- Wired Shutter Release: CA-3
- Easy to operate, Half-press to focus, Full-press to shoot
- Fits macro photography well, eliminates camera shake
- Standard External Viewfinder: GV-1
- Mini External Viewfinder: GB-2
- ✪LCD Screen Protector perfectly fit for Ricoh GR 3 DSLR Camera . Not for other model. Easy to install...
- ✪9H Hardness - Longer tempering time, which made the screen protector has a higher hardness. Prevents...
- Soft Case: GC-9
- Neck Strap: GS-3
- Hand Strap: GS-2
Ricoh has produced a wide-angle conversion lens that takes the standard 28mm view down to a 21mm (in 35mm equivalent). While it does add some extra bulk to an otherwise small camera, it works well and adds a more dramatic, wider view. I have an [in-depth review of it separately](https://havecamerawilltravel.com/photographer/ricoh-gw-4-wide-angle-conversion-lens/).
Something to be aware of, though, is that you will also need to pick up the lens adapter separately. For reasons I really don't understand, the wide-angle conversion lens doesn't come with the adapter, and both are required to make it work. So make sure you pick up one of those at the same time.
Remote Shutter Releases
This is the official Ricoh remote shutter. It connects to the camera via a USB cable, and it's a simple shutter release (i.e., there's no timer or intervalometer).
You can also find aftermarket shutter releases for the GR III.
The Ricoh GR III doesn't have a built-in viewfinder. But they make two versions of an external viewfinder that slides into the camera's hot shoe. It covers both the standard 28mm view as well as the 21mm view if you're using the wide-angle conversion lens. There's also a mini viewfinder; that model seems to be hard to find.
The back screen of the GR III is quite exposed, and if you lie the camera on its back, the screen comes in contact with the surface. Even if you're putting the camera in your pocket, there's a risk of keys or coins scratching the screen.
There's no official screen protector, but there are good aftermarket versions. The one I use is this one. It's essentially a consumable that protects the screen. If you scratch the protector, you can quickly and easily replace it with another from the pack.
You can, of course, use the GR III with just about any camera case or bag. But Ricoh does make a dedicated soft-case that fits snugly around the camera and offers some protection even if you're toting the camera around in your pocket. I've been using one for a couple of years, and it's held up very well, and it keeps my camera safer from bumps and scratches.
Again, there's no particular reason you have to use the official GR neck strap, but there is one. The main part is leather, and it even has a discreet, embossed "GR".
If you do use a different strap, be aware that the strap loops on the camera are very small and won't take thicker (i.e., stronger) attachment loops. So you might need to use some D-rings as well.
There's even an official "GR" leather hand strap! But, again, aside from the branding, there's no special reason to use the official strap. If you do use a different one, you might need D-rings if the thread doesn't go through the camera's small attachment loops.
The GR III doesn't have a built-in flash. It supports the Pentax P-TTL flash protocol.Pentax External Flashes: