How to Use Step-Up & Step-Down Filter Adapter Rings for Screw-in Lens Filters

Why buy three expensive polarizers when you only need one? Step-up rings are the secret weapon of pro photographers, allowing you to adapt a single high-quality filter to fit almost every lens in your bag. Here is how they work.

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Text & Photos By David Coleman
Last Revised & Updated:
Filed Under: Lens Filters

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Camera lenses come with different lens diameters at the front of the lens. Chances are, if you’ve got a couple of lenses in your camera bag, you’ll need a couple of different-sized screw-in filters to fit them.

Ideally, you’d have a set of perfectly sized filters for the diameter of each lens in your kit. But that’s not practical or cost-effective most of the time — good-quality filters aren’t cheap! Carrying three or four polarizer filters, for example, can be pricey and cumbersome.

So if you don’t have a specific filter size that you need for your lens’s diameter, a good option is to use a step-up filter. They’re sometimes also called stepping rings or adapter rings.

Not to be confused with lens adapters (or lens mount adapters), which let you put one type of lens mount on a camera body that has a different style of lens mount.

Lens Filter Step-Up and Step-Down Rings
Photo by David Coleman / Have Camera Will Travel

All step-up or step-down rings do is adapt the diameter of the filter to match the lens diameter.

They don’t have any glass or electronics, so they have no bearing on the optical quality or features like autofocus.1

Infographic showing which type of filter adapter ring to use when.

Which to Use When?

– Step-Up: Small Lens Thread -> Big Filter (e.g., 52mm Lens -> 77mm Filter). Safe to use.
– Step-Down: Big Lens Thread -> Small Filter (e.g., 77mm Lens -> 52mm Filter). Causes vignetting.

Lens Filter Step-Up and Step-Down Rings
Photo by David Coleman / Have Camera Will Travel

Things worth knowing about step-up & step-down rings

  • Rings usually have two numbers printed on them (e.g., “52-77”). The first number is almost always the lens side (male thread), and the second number is the filter side (female thread).
  • Step-Up/Step-Down rings don’t work well with lens hoods, so you’ll likely have to do without the hood.
  • As with regular filters, don’t over-tighten them. If you do, there’s a good chance you’ll damage the lens’s thread. If they do get stuck, you can use a rubber band or filter wrench to undo them.
  • There’s no optical quality to the filters — there’s no glass in them. So the price isn’t about optical quality — it’s about the construction of the ring itself. The cheapest, and flimsiest, are plastic. I much prefer metal filters to plastic ones. They’re just more durable, especially the threads.
  • But there’s another distinction. When choosing metal, cheap aluminum rings can bind (get stuck) easily against aluminum lens threads. Brass rings (like those from Sensei or higher-end brands) are much less likely to bind.
  • It is possible to stack these rings to get to a size that no single ring can do, but it increases the chance of vignetting. And it’s less than ideal to push the filter glass further away from the lens itself — it just increases the risk of optical issues from dust or smudges on the filter.
Lens Filter Step-Up and Step-Down Rings
Photo by David Coleman / Have Camera Will Travel

Pro strategy: Buy big

Buy filters for your largest lens (e.g., 77mm or 82mm) and use step-up rings for all your smaller lenses. This saves you from buying multiple expensive polarizer or ND filters.

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Where to find them

You can buy them individually or in kits like this one.

Lens filter size charts

I’ve compiled some lens filter size charts, starting with some of the most commonly used and current lenses. You can find the corresponding chart here:

Notes & References:

  1. An exception to the optical quality is if you’re using a filter that’s smaller than the lens diameter, in which case there’s a strong chance you’ll get vignetting around the edges and corners of the frame. [↩︎]
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David Coleman

I take photos for a living. Now based in Washington, D.C., I have spent the last 30+ years shooting across seven continents — from underwater environments to mountain peaks. My images and time-lapses have appeared in major newspapers, magazines, museums, professional sports stadiums, and even on massive architectural scrims covering world-famous buildings.

I started this site in 2009 to field-test gear, share problem-solving solutions, and share what I've learned in shooting around the world. I only review gear and services I have personally used. No armchair opinions — just real-world experience. Because, for me, the fun is in the making of the photo.

You can see my travel photography here, license my images or buy prints here, or sign up for my Substack.

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